Winter Sessions Part 2

This fantastic winter weather continues but today is an enforced rest day - I have no skin and have to wrap up some Christmas presents!

Yesterday though was amazing!!! Richie, Ben and I headed out to Rieff in the Woods with a car stuffed full of boulder pads! On the way the psyche built up with talk of repeating of the Main Issue, font 7b, a Richie Betts classic...

We arrived and it was freezing... Many of the boulders had frost covered top out so we brushed it off and did a wee warm up circuit. There's some really funky problems here!

A forsty morning (pics from Betts)

Still quite cold but even more psyched we went to try the Main Issue. There's a bit of stigma around such a great line - It was unrepeated (as far as we knew), it's high and scary, we all know Richie is the king of the dyno and it took him a few trips to stick the jump! But the friction was excellent... It took a few goes to be able to fully commit to the dyno because there's a tree and a boulder to land on. Soon, I stuck the move but had a bit of an Ethan Pringle moment topping out - my excuse was the small sloper you use to pull over was covered in ice!! I think the frost had melted a wee bit when we brushed it off then turned to ice... Luckily, I had my hold brushing bitch (sorry Rich!) on hand to clean the hold and topped out rather shaken. Ben did it soon after, topping out in a far more manly fashion!

Dunno if that works so here's a link: http://video.google.co.uk/videoplay?docid=5707079817429080123

We then tried a new problem by Lawrence just left of the Main Issue which seemed pretty tough! After working out the top part I came so close to sending it falling off holding the last jug! doh!

We moved round to try a V6 arete called Clach mheallian where I fell off the last move again and was thinking this just wasn't my day for topping out! Worst of all I started bleeding from my finger tip which made me sooo upset, but gave it another shot and sent it to hell!!!

I decided to give up for the rest of today and take photos. We went across to see the Crack, font 7a+. Rich managed it and I got psyched to flash it and with that and good beta and encouragement, I topped out first try.

Betts sending the Crack

The way home was eventful - we heard Murdoch had an accident winter climbing (Get better soon dude!), saw a guy crash his car and it was on fire, and decided a night time boulder sesh at Scatwell was a good idea!!

It was very dark and spooky, especially when Richie told us there may or may not have been a massacre here...

The friction was mint. Ben and I were psyched to repeat 2 unrepeated Betts classic in a day and set to work on The Road to Domestos.

The camera flash makes it look like day time here...

I found it pretty tough (all worries of sore skin were gone - we were psychedd!!!! haha) but Ben did it quickly and set to work on the Catch. He made the crux look easy but struggled to find a short person sequence for the top...

Ben on the Catch

Click here for a vid http://video.google.co.uk/videoplay?docid=8615597734113067337

We did Scatwell Massacre which is something of a superb problem! Then I decided it was time I took my tampon out and at last managed The Road to Domestos! We then tried Flytip Lip, a good problem but we couldn't really see what we were doing so called it a night!

That's probably all blog updates for a while, so to all blog fans - have a good Christmas!

Mike

Brin Video

Had a bash at making a film of today... the main problem was neither of us could seem to climb whilst being filmed... So its a bit pieced together and jerky... Enjoy!!

Brin Winter Sessions (Part 1)

Brin Rock - what a place.

Ben at Brin

This is the Magic Wood of the North and has some really cool funky boulders. Ben and I were dropped off by our mothers and trekked across the field at dawn on the extra frosty morning. We warmed up with a dose of Hit Me then went project hunting! First we found a nice vertical wall, 20m to the left of the Block which, faces up hill. We did 2 new lines Business Time V4, the left arete, and Part Time Model, V5, climbs the middle, both from sitters. Then we went exploring deep into the wood, running around and checking anything that caught our eye. There's lots to do...

When we found an amazing overhanging roof we decided to start here and work our way back. This boulder is obvious if you go 10m further along than the den and look up hill, it looks like a Crocodile's snout...

The Crocodile Boulder

Beneath the roof we climbed a crimpy V8 testpiece from two opposing crimps, throw up a heel and crimp your way to the snout. I named it Crocabot... But the main project takes the right hand side and looks very hard indeed.

Ambiance

Then it was up hill and right slightly for a super cool blunt arete problem...

Old Love, V6

Then more hiking through the forest...


...To the big overhanging arete project...

Project...

It's big and bold, do-able but maybe only just...

Then more walking in the woods and back to the happy boulder where I retro-flashed Spirited V5. Then, we gazed in awe at the big black roof project... The King Project...

Home Again

I'm up the road for Christmas now which is excellent - food, warmth, and more than one place to climb at... WOO!

Only bad thing is I dropped my phone on the way up the road but luckily my amazing girlfriend cath found it and and is bring it to me this weekend. So if you need to get in touch phone my home number or leave a comment or something...

I suppose the so called secret sport crag is out on Scottish Climbs so I suppose its ok to tell those with their ears to the ground that I went to Moy Rock today. It has a good spread of grades and some popping pebbles but managed to flash the 5 routes on the big flat face which was quite strange... I haven't gone a day without falling off for a long time!

Brin Winter Sessions look set to start with great temps for sending hard projects. To my mind Brin is the best bouldering venue around, despite one comment that "its the Mecca of places which are close enough that your mother doesn't mind dropping you off at". This kind of attitude is part of the reason Brin hasn't received world class status, the other part being that it rains, its midgey, its boggy, the landings are bad, the problems are covered in moss... BUT the cleaned problems are ace!

Brin Winter sessions - be there or go to Torridon with an O.G.

This is me all alone in the flat: I'm wearing my blue dressing gown on top of my clothes, its pretty cold in here - we keep the heating off. I'm eating my dinner which is not going down very well - I've decided to try and not shop from now until I go home on Saturday... I need to rethink this, I'll either starve or throw up from combining foods that definitely shouldn't go together (I'll spare the details). I'm listening to a random selection of music on my comp. Just now, the Beatles - Girl. Nice.... next, The Saw Doctors - N17. Excellent!! I'm reading the Deep Water book. It's really good, it's been a long time since I've been so absorbed in a guide. The Master plan is to go Portugal in august/September and tear it up with the sun, sand, sea, rock, cheap flights and an airport transfer to the crag! The second master plan is to go to Swissy in March and get a tour of Magic Wood from Ben who spent a few months there last Easter. Ben says he loves it out there, psyched. This means training. By now I've discarded what remains of my "meal" and chalking up for a fingerboard sesh. Guide book left open... Breath visible in the cold... Song - "If Tomorrow Never Comes", Ronan Keating... err...

...

Recently things have been going backwards.

I've gone off blog posts it seems, probably for a variety of reasons. Mostly I've just been lazy, but also I've got climber's around me you know all the time. last year and over the summer in murano street and Inverness, if I wanted to express a climbing feeling... but here I have climbing buds in my flat, which takes something away from sitting down and hitting keys... What's the point? Well just now I'm all alone for a wee while in the flat so I can let my mind wonder for a bit.

Yesterday was maybe a recoil of a lot of things that have been building up for a while. I bought a new pair of climbing shoes. This has been on the cards for a long time since all my shoes have holes in them. Expensive things. I switched to 5.10s from scarpas so thats pretty cool. The sales assistant in tiso told me if I bought them I'd be up climbing V6 by the end of the week. Thats what sold them.


Also, we went out... This is strickly against everything... bad for the health, bad for the soul, bad for my reputation as an old man. Yup, the climber's flat did some socail stuff for once. We had a go at being students. If you resist something so much for so long, it can sneak up on you and attack when your guard is down. Next thing we knew we were on vodkas, wearing shirts and... dancing.

Climbing. Well since I bought a month pass ive been trying to head to the wall a lot. Not soo good for my uni course, seeing as its class test time. I dont really like the wall but I did manage to campus 1-3-5-7-9 for the first time yesterday... I like Dumbarton but have been feeling antipsyche (the force which makes you fall off) and havn't climbed anything much. So I've spent a lot of time going back and doing classics, highball slabs (though BNI is still too 'out there'), one handed stuff and traversing the sea boulder in my trainers.

So my feeling at the moment is if you stick at something through gritted teeth which isn't quite in your nature then your nature will backlash and you'll some get "negetive" consquences.

Mike

King Lines

It's saturday night and it's raining. This is a bummer for two reasons. one - its night time and two - its raining. I'M SO PSYCHED!!!!!! I want to go climbing. I want to go to Ceuse and Majorca and Buttermilks and.. I want to hang by my finger tips and say send it and do really cool power screams. This is because... I've just watched King Lines, three times.

It better be dry tomorrow.

Blog War

You may have read Ben's blog where he makes reference to a 'funny hole' in my chest. Said hole is perfectly normal and makes me look like I've got big pecks. Ben is jealous and his comments are not well received thus a blog war has started. Ben is an attention seeking, uncouth know it all, who can't climb for shit unless he's wear his 'sending trousers' which have a hole in the arse. This hole is far more embarrassing and funny then the afore mention hole in my chest which really isn't much of a hole anyway - more of a concave area. Why GBen makes a big deal of it, I don't know, though, frankly, I'm going to suggest he has some deep emotional problems which he can only vent by taking it out on those with a slight tiny difference cos he's so perfect. NOT.

So if you were looking for a nice story about my amazing psyche full day at dumby (where I repeated consolidated and sent my first dumby V9) well... I'm in a bad mood so no nice story. Blame ben for this please.

Oh yeh the spelling on ben's blog is even worse than mine.

Glasgow

Well, after an epic search, the climber's flat has now been established. The Climbers are:

Me - legoman haircut/lanky youth
Ben Litster - fresh from 5 months in europe, Chris Sharma.
Murdo Jamieson - All rounder, likes winter climbing (yeuch) and very tall.

Honorary member - Danny Laing - adventurist and keen

This is excellent and seems the psyche levels will be tip top through out the year.

On the crest of the psyche wave was a send of Dum Dum Boys 7c+ by Ben and I. This is a line just left of sufference and is of similar difficulty. It's also bad ass - some of the holds are no so good crimps and beta from Alan Cassidy was excellent. Ben sent it with out much trouble, despite climbing the top out onsight. I'd done the bottom section clean but with the 4th bolt preclipped so was very nervous not to fall off here. Luckily I managed to do so, but it was not smooth at all. I missed the crux move twice before eventually grasping the ok sloper. Soon after this I was lying on the ledge whilst being jeered by the unhelpful Alan and Niall for poor style...

Good to do it in a day, as it took me so long to do sufference. Tarrier next!!!

Susurrus Photos

Cath took some pic's when Ben and I were working the big roof. They were on my bro's camera who left for Uni. Luckily, he is a legend and was able to send me the best ones. Unluckily, dodgey light levels (poor photographer) mean there not top quality but ok nonetheless:

Across the roof...
This shows the beta for the start quite nicely for anyone nonlocal keen to repeat...
Cutting loose!
Ben
Quite a good pic of ben here!

Was bored today so started a flickr thing: http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikeleepics/

The Susurrus

My dad phones, he just got my text, its 5pm but he's up for giving me a lift to Brin Boulders at about 6. I give Nic Duboust a call, not seen him in a while, keen to climb with an actual climber, the project might go...

We arrive a Brin, the promising breeze dies as we enter the woods, the midge arrive, my dad retreats. We pad out the Big Roof boulder with pads belonging to a variety of different climbers, 6 pads in total, each one definately needed. I put my shoes on whilst desperatly slapping midgies. My skin regrown, I pull on the first moves and climb through the intial boulder problem to get to the roof and get to the lip. I'm not really warmed up so not really suprised that I dont make it. I let my breathing recover and try again. And again. Again.

Midgies are eating my face by now, Nick has put his shoes on. I've just fallen off slapping the top sloper and decide if it doesn't go this time I'm getting out of this motherfuckingshithole. Breathing back to normal, I crawl back into the lying start, get the heel toe in and lie back, chalk up, and go. The first hard move, a throw to a slopey slide sloper is stuck. Foot up and now the crux rock over kinda move to a small crimp. I overcook it a wee bit and twist outward but regain purchase and move to the incut flake. My fingers are too fat to really make the most of this so I quickly move to the next good incut and then onto the good hold on the lip. This is where my feet come off, No more foothold till your rocking over the top. I campus in to match the hold, out with my left to a side pull, adjust right slightly and campus! The top sloper is stuck, but only just. Still, I can't believe it!! I bump my hand up and, with a wee power grunt, I'm in. I campus to cross over and match, then again to correct the cross over, and again to gain the jugs. Rock over using grass. Excellent!!!! Wooo!! Yeessss! Woooo!!

However, I feel like I stole Ben's project. We were both working it to together, both falling off at the crux campus. It would of been a close thing to see would do it first and it would've been cool to have a climb off with him for the FA. He also was kind enough to give me lifts and beta and use of pads, so, Ben - Thanks! (ben is in England). Note to Ben: I think it took me 4/5 attempts today so try and beat that! It also sucks cos now I have to grade it - think V9 is probably fair, though I've never done one. (reasoning is that I think its V8 to get to the roof). Chose to call it The Susurrus, which is a pretty cool word reflecting the idea that the project had been whispering/murmuring in my mind for like a week! Crazy.

I'm so psyched...

Pic's will hopefully follow...

Peak review

Long time coming, I cant really be arsed writing this but I'm pretty bored.

Good things about the peak:

- Gritstone
- Soloing
- The Banter
- Pub Meals
- Bouldering four V8's
- Shit load of other bouldering
- E4 onsight
- Archangel!!
- The Rasp
- Soloing the Asp
- A few health falls for increased confidence
- Meeting some good bumblies at Stanage and local's at Higgar
- Strange Dave
- Attempting Deliverance (One to go back for)
- Outside
- Frisby
- My Birthday
- Bridge
- Frijj
- The [Crap] Road to [Boredom] 100 e points [the worst game you'll ever play!] (a board game I made up)(title rubbished by Danny Laing)

Bad things about the Peak:

- The Rain
- Waiting 2.5 days for some skin only to start bleeding again after one boulder problem.
- No skin, ever.
- Walking, everywhere, twice, everyday.
- Losing Wallet (found by a nice woman)
- Lack of 'abundant climbing' feeling (due to weather and no skin)
- Count's Buttress
- Bumblies
- Pasta

Some Pics:

The Rasp, E2

Millstone

Stanage

Simon

Owen

The depressing weather in the first week led to some awesome poetry. Here's a taste:

Rain

Rain, rain, your such a pain,

I rather wish I'd gone to Spain.

Or anywhere just not here,

Because it seems to just rain all year.

I like to climb in the sun,

But it only rains, its not much fun.

My feet are wet, my clothes are damp,

And the people won't let us stay and camp

Rain... Rain... Rain...

The Biscuits here are really nice,

But the past gets boring, so does the rice.

Our tent is full of bugs and stuff,

Camping here is really rough.

The beer is flat, our mouths are dry,

Sometimes I want to cry

Cry... Cry... :'(

By Danny Laing

*

I'm a Bumbly

I'm a Bumbly! I'm a Bumbly!

From the Popular End!

I can't do high step up,

For my knees, they don't bend!

I have a red helmut!

and hexes galore!

But when I try a server,

I can't get off the floor!

I dream one day,

To climb a V Diff onsight!

Last time I tried,

I had to back off in fright!

I'm a Bumbly! I'm a Bumbly!

I can't climb for shit

Try as I might,

I look like a tit.

By Mike and Danny

Back in Inverness my skin has yet to fully recover. My hands always smell sweetly due to the Norwegian Formula hand cream. This hasn't stopped me and my best bud Ben attempting the Brin roof Project. It's a beast. Last move is a brittish 6c campus! nasty.

Anyway I'm for a jam sesh with my wee bro. Steel string guitars are good for the skin aye??

Peak

I went t' peak and got rained on then, when it brightened, I lost all my skin within a session - I blame lack of veg. more on this when I can be arsed

Aberdeen DWS

I went to Aberdeen. I think DWS is MEGA.

I was Working.. But then I got Psyched!!

Today is my last day of work before I jack it in. "Why are you jacking it in?" I hear you ask... Well, it's because I'm PSYCHED!!

Working for me is a nightmare. It feels like I'm wasting my time. I end up thinking about different moves and projects and the feeling of psyche builds and builds. If it's sunny outside, I'm even more psyched - I might actually go climbing! But I can never be sure - I don't drive and there's only about 3/4 people I cant hope to get a lift climbing with. This uncertainty makes me even more psyched because I have to make the most of every opportunity! It gets to the point where I have to go climbing, nothing else for it. This usually means going to the wall. But last night, it meant a trip to Cummingston...

Rob and I drive out to Cummingston after work, and every farmer seems to be out in their tractors, not that i dislike farmers of course! We get to Cummy and meet Rich and Dave and start climbing. I've never bouldered much here before so it was a real treat to be shown round all the classics by expert local Dave. Tempts were top, the friction sweet and the climbing delightful. I always thought of the bouldering here as mainly traverses and eliminates, and maybe thats true, but I didnt realise how worthwhile a venue it is reguardless. We went round all the cool lines, the highlights for me being a flash of Match and Snatch font 7b (I think thats its name), and a kinda flash of Finger Licker font 7b (tried it years ago). All thanks to enthusiastic beta from Dave and shouts of alle! from rich and rob. Lowlights were coming off the last move of a overhanging arete and narrowly missing a flash on the Nest font 7a (dunno if thats what its called).

Anyway, gotta finish packing because tonight I leave for my girlfriends Birthday! then on to Aberdeen for the Deep Water Soloing Fest! After this I'm heading down t peak for 16 days. With so much climbing on offer, I'm gonna try and relax and enjoy it as a holiday instead of climbing climbing climbing climbing... which I hope will be refreshing change. Probably end up getting psyched though.

Cheerio, Mike

Huntly's Cave

Yesterday I when to Huntly's Cave with a brand new climbing bud, Ben. He'd slept in having been out most of the night and we didn't head out till 2pm. When we arrived (watch out the car park is different now so remember to stop even if you dont recognise it) Ben climbed double over hang then I had a score settled on Pete's Wall. Last time I was on it resulted in server pump and my first leader fall. Yesterday it felt like a piece of piss, maybe only E1, but I'll happily take the 2 E points. Ben's elbow was fucked from arm wrestling and he couldn't second and that was his climbing over for the rest of the day. I then attempted Bo Po Crack. I'd tried it before arsing around one day, going on it again it felt like an onsight. A few timid attempts at getting over the roof were reversed until Ben said he was getting eaten alive by midge. I decided to go for it and pull over the roof but the temps were not good and I greased off. Got it next try... am def taking the e points on that one too.

What people don't seem to get is that it is my e point league, I make the rules, and one of the rules is that the best looking climber will win!!



Edit: Murdoch had this to say about my ascent of Bo Po Crack: "get my fucking name on ur blog then" as he gave me knowledge of where the good hold were. Sorry Murdo, Thanks for the beta... Ya needy person!

Double Repeated (almost!)

Last Sunday I came close to repeating my greatest ever climbing feat - climbing E5 and 8a (the double) in one weekend.

My radio alarm went off at 6.30am to the tune of some christian lord praising number. I hadn't bothered to tune my radio to anything in particular the night before and as luck would have it I woke with the good news that God sent his own son to die for my sins - a huge relief.

With a morally clear mind I made it into town to catch the Scotbus at 8am. It didnt turn up till 8.20am though it still seemed to think £2.80 to get to dingwall was just.

From Dingwall, Andy picked me up with Clare and Murdoch and we headed west.

Weather: suspiciously overcast

We arrived at Tolliadh Crags and walked through a squelchy bog (wellies - I cant get enough of them at the moment - superb) Andy Lead an E1 which we all had a bash at seconding, but my eye had been drawn to an uncomprimising E5 called Crossroads going over a steep overhanging buldge. Short, well protected, 6b. I hoped I would suit me due to the bouldering spree I've been on. I set off on the lead having been lowered off for a wee look at it. Weather: Raining. Backed off to don my waterproof trousers and gave it another bash. I established on a poor sidepull, worked my feet up, and threw to a 2 finger slot in a crack. Unfortunatly I only caught it with one finger and didnt have the tension to 'bounce' to get another finger in. I fell off and almost kicked Murdoch in the head. Dejected, I restorted to tried and tested headpoint tactics, which worked! Pulling on to the jugs above the buldge, sunlight found its way through the dark clouds and I felt its pleasant warmth on my face. It's always nice when that happens. I need more mileage, thats obvious to me. But at the same time I want to climb routes to remember. I dont get trad climbing very much so I'm always tempted to go for hard stuff just incase I might get a breakthrough send and all of a sudden I'll have the ability and knowledge to onsight E4's, E5's... regularly. I'm going to the peak in August and I've promised myself to do loads and loads of E1's, E2's and E3's so see what happens.

Weather update: pishing with rain.

I'm sitting in the car with Murdoch and Megan, who turned up 'for the banter'. I find a book on the backseat which takes my mind off the rain for a while. It's an I spy affair, I have to locate various fairy tale characters hidden within a picture. Murdoch has trouble with it, he doesn't know what tom thumb looks like. The rain clears but so has the breeze. We are soon sorting out gear for some afternoon sport climbing when here come the midges. Oh God. Noooooo!! Jesus fucking Christ fuck midges I hate them. The Faith I found this morning seems to have gone out the window. I'm sorry, how can I love all creatures great and small when there are midges biting my face and neck and hands, and, moreover, what kind of God would create such foul monsters! Not a very good one, that much is obvious. I run round in a circle in hope of making the buggers dizzy but it doesnt work.

We arrive a top secret west coast sport climbing crag called Kuhjo Crag. Topo out soon though! I try a project which has the suggested grade of 8a. It takes me a while, but I think I get all the moves. I'm too pooped to go for a redpoint. The top out feels desperate but might not be too bad with after a rest. One thing is for sure - it will go. They always do.

Thanks to Murdoch for heroic belaying both on the E5 and project!

Travelling back now. I fall asleep in the car. Home. Dinner. Bath. Bed.

Psyche(d a)Gain!

Tonight I met Richie Betts and he was truely buzzing with psyche. We quickly dismissed an indoor sesh on Andys wall in favour of the Scatwell Boulder, bravely risking the threat of rain and a midge-fest in search of hard projects!!

The boulder is another find by Richie, and its a good 'un, as my grannie sometimes says, though she's not into bouldering. She has climbed Sydney Harbour bridge, however.

Anyway the psyche did the business. I managed to almost tick the boulder but it's intense! The first problem i tried was the weird but wonderful "The Alcove" - V3, which took numberous attempts to get my head around, then my arms and body and finally my legs. Next was a burly V5 - "Scatwell Masacre" which I was psyched to try and flash but my feet came off and campusing, surpisingly, did not provide the send. A couple of tries later, it was ticked!

Next problem to suffer the psyche was The Project up the center of the face. It involved using opposing crimps to make a hard hard move to small incut. A heel hook and rock over provided the solution, though from here it was by no means over, on account of I couldnt reach the next hold. The tension required to keep the heel hook in place failed, resulting in an impossible to hold outward swing and graceful landing on the pads. Eventually though, I managed to link it to a sit start giving the boulder its hardest problem - The Catch V8 (V7 from standing).

Crux rock over of The Catch

Richie then got very psyched for another new line, previously dismissed. But with surplus psyche he manged to pull over the bulgde. At the final moment his foot spat off in a moment of sheer disbelief and landed flat on his back... A thinking and a suss out of a better finish and the psyche was back on, and the problem was sent to hell!

Richie setting up for the crux throw on his new problem, around V6/7

I then tried the Flytip Lip, V6, but my arms were wasted and couldn't stay composed on the strenuous moves. A good sesh nonetheless! The boulder is well worth is visit if your travelling out west - its 2mins from the road, skin friendly and, in my opinion, as good as Ardmair beach. Drop me an email if your psyched for this place!

Psyche loss

Last weekend, I came 27th outta around 60 in the BBC.... ok but, add that to the depressing nature of comps and my general down beat mood at the moment, and the psyche was definatly missing.

But am going to the peak!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ben Nevis

Khaiser approachs the ice

Onlookers can hardly believe what they're seeing

Free soloing, -20 degrees C, 3000ft up, no crampons, no tools...

Doom and Gloom

My mood is not brilliant. The day I start work is the first day of sunny weather in living memory. Its not that I mind helping customers by providing a conclusive sales service, today I just felt tired afterwards. This was not help by a boring wall sesh this evening. I tried helping my bro and a couple of his mates by providing a mike lee masterclass. I sorta wondered how someone like Mr Muir can devote so much time to helping kids. I am always tooo psyched for the climbs I'm involved with to give tips on a V1. Dunno if that's elitist or selfish or just psyched - I enjoy climbing rock, not so much watching others. But I've found if your really tired and lack psyche is good to explain the wonderous drop knee or whatever, definatly picks the psyche up a bit.

Yesterday Rich and I went to Glen Nevis where we got (very) wet and 3 ticks (2 boulder problems and Edgehog). We bailed just after 3pm to the sunny Ruthven boulder where Rich had a go at everything, though the big 3 (razor's edge V7, Barry Manilow V6, and the Big Lobowski V6) remain for him to do. The Project still remains; estimated grade - V10; total number of moves done - 2; estimated number of moves at 6b or above - 7. Very hard indeed if you ask me.

Mazie Gun at Glen Nevis. The flash was on, then it was off (because I fell).

This is the steep back wall of the same boulder. Does anyone know name/grade?

Rich flashed Night Moves at Ruthven. Dunno how... I havn't been able to do it since doing it.

Waily waily waily

Bad news. I have a job, driving lessons and also am tutoring. All this equals less time for climbing and seeing Cath, add that to the shittiest weather ever and you've got a very miserable situation.
But it gets worse - I managed to sneak a lift of my mum out to dunty for a boulder sesh with Edd (doesn't sound too bad? well read on...). I managed nothing - couldn't repeat the Dagger, which is now definatly back up to V6. Did a new problem but it sucks and is dangerous as donuts. Note to Rich: its the slopey ramp/arete between the dagger and the warm up. Call it: The Rope, grade it: V3. Tried the left arete project but couldn't top out. This sucks - its the same top out as the Dagger which I flashed!! Curses!! Couldn't remember how to do it. I hurt my hand too. We were getting midged and Edd was struggling to send anything, we decided to bugger off. As we packed up - here comes the worst bit - I dropped my phone down a void between too boulders. Managed to fish it out, but it was soaked and seriously wonky. We were screwed. Couldn't phone for a lift home so we decided to walk.

It started raining. Heavily. Eventually we made it to Dunlichity House (an excellent looking 4 star hotel with superb outlooks and very friendly - well worth a visit if your in the area) where a kind woman leant us a phone. We thanked her very much and waited for my mum to arrive by hiding under a tree to keep "dry".

So my phone is broken :( untill further notice. phone my house - 01463 242001 or drop a comment...

Anna and I, My dad, Edd, Calum and Rich went to Dunty early this week. I led Dracula (which has ferns growing in it - its a classic! Why does it not get climbed???) for my first time which was really fun as I only had 3 cams! Anna 2nded smoothly then Edd and calum tried to top rope it which resulted in kamakazee swings! Went to pinnicle for a bit after. Only really put this on because Anna was desperate for a mention.... Oh and a big shout out to Dad's Jen who complained she didn't hasn't got a mention. Hi.

Where is the sun?

Creag Nan Luch

I like Creag Nan Luch.

After a week of no much climbing I was fortunate to have good friends offer me a lift to some hard Wester Ross projects on Sunday. I was delighted to accept the invitation, though the forecast was questionable, and I was soon travelling along the A832 in the backseat of Andy's Megane with Murdoch, Rich and Andy (who fortunately wasn't in the back seat).

We arrived at Creag Nan Luch just as the sun left the crag. To warm up, I tried to onsight Walkaway 7a+, so called because once you do it, you'll never want to do it again... The climbing is dead easy up to a desperate move off crimps which felt very greasy. This is where I promptly got stuck in a tenuous position, resulted to throwing for what looked like an ok hold, and fell off. Bugger. After working the move out, it was dispatched second try.

Walkaway 7a+ (all photos: Rich Betts)

The day was interspersed with boulder seshs on the boulders below the crag. Rich and I repeated The Best Boulder Problem in Wester Ross, V4/5 ish?, which Murdoch raved about, it is indeed a good problem, though where the boundary of wester ross lies is still a debate (Rich proclaimed the testpieces of Torridon were far superior). Rich also found and brushed an arete which was easy enough but had a scary landing and highball feel. ("If I was half my age I'd have no problem at all committing to the move" said Rich, "I guess I have no excuses then" I said) I managed it in my bare feet, woo! Toilet Arete V3, named after Murdoch's nearby shitpit, heehee!

Rich Bouldering at Creag nan Luch

Andy interrupted the sesh by saying there was a perfectly good crag right next to us. We agreed and got back to clipping bolts. Jim B and Rich's boss Mark and Mark's wife turned up, this created a very social atmosphere. Rich and I managed to redpoint Shootabeena, 7b+, Andy came agonisingly close to sending Superblue, also 7b+.

Andy on Superblue

My highlight of the day was a flash of Superblue, thanks to superb Beta from Andy. This involved climbing up through the crux to a ledge fairly swiftly and unconsciously. At the ledge, all I remember thinking was don't mess up this last bit to the chain... I tried to take it slow and climbed up a bit to scope out the holds - the next thing I know I'm committed onto the the climb, past the point where I could return to the ledge. I was up by the chain, stretching to clip the 'draw in what felt like a tenuous position, 2 inches to go, I though shit, I can't reach it - but managed to hold on just long enough to clip with much relief all round.

The Flash Attempt

After this the rain came on and it was back to Andy's for a short sesh on his home wall. This made Murdoch very psyched but his injured body stopped him from doing much more than sitting on a patio chair, shouting abuse at the struggling climbers.

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Check out Wild West Topos for a pic of Murdoch's scar and an awesome poster of Creag nan Luch!

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I'm genuinely surprised at the number of views this blog gets! Unless there's some cock sucker sitting at home pressing refresh over and over!

Mike

Update

Hello, I am at home, about to eventually sort out driving lessons (at last!), but first a quick run down of last weeks climbing action.

There was none.

This was because Cath was not psyched for standing round watching climbing in the rain, and I was keen to keep her happy, not only because she was a tad unhappy about a previous blog post, but also because seeing her happy makes me happy too. :)

However, Last night I had a monster sesh on Andy's new home wall. On it, I have yet to set a problem that anyone can do. This is because people can't seem to hold slopers on a roof with no feet... Thanks goes to Andy for a superbly defrosted Spaghetti bolognese and for letting me crash!

Other good news is I found out how to put a counter onto my blog - scroll down the bottom of this page to see it. This way I can keep up to date with how popular I am and also let everyone else know too! Excellent. I was going to start the counter at a modest 100,000 views, but thought 0 is plenty.

The Misty Boulders

I was about to go to the wall when I received a text from Richie Betts. All of a sudden the wall was no longer an option and we were heading out through some fog to duntelchaig. We agreed to go check out Richie's new problem the Dagger. The weather was marginal but the psyche levels were sufficently high that we made the walk through some boggy heather. We had a quick warm up, then Rich ran me through the beta of the Dagger. Could it be a historic flashed second ascent?

The flash attempt

I made it through the intail moves really quickly thanks to the top notch beta. Then looked up to the sloper on the lip. It looked a long way off. Nonetheless, I gave it some welly and was lucky enough to stick the move. Woo!! Rich and I had a think about the grade, reckon its maybe slightly easier - maybe V5 but probably V6 for the short.

We were midway through cleaning up another line (the arete you can see in the above photo) when it started to rain. Packing up seemed like the sensible option but we thought we'd check out the overhanging wall further along. ("Hey Mike - this wall looks dry" - "I think we should get rock shoes back on as soon as possible, Rich!")

The fog was very thick which made conditions not too ideal for sending but the midges had a great time. Not only that, my pinky finger started to bleed from too much cracking. But we got a few sends - the finest being this here crack:

Knife Wound - V7

Name inspired by the awesome line of the Dagger and the fact that my pinky was bleeding quite badly at the time. I think its about V7 - the hold my left hand is on is really hard to catch, then you have to match it! Probably a sandbag for the short again...

We thought it had never been visited before but I've been speaking to Andrew - sounded like he'd been up there so maybe its been climbed a bit but seems unlikely... In the car on the way back we agreed we need a couple more seshions to tidy the place up etc then a topo will be made! Watch this space!

Ruthven part 2

Done all the lines on the Ruthven boulder that I know about - woo! - Must ask John Watson is there are any additions to the Stone country guide...

No Job still.

Weeded the garden/meadow.

Confused by bolt debate on SC - how can someone be so stubborn as to remove bolts from a naff crag? If he was that psyched for these routes, why wait 3 years? 3 years!! Thats a sixth of my life! If I had a trad project and someone bolted it, I would be pure raggin'! Something doesn't quite add up. And I'm also amazed people are so worked up about such an uninspiring piece of rock. It's really all quite... bitter.

I need to focus on getting really psyched for Goat Prow. I'll hopefully get another go at the route this weekend. But Cath's coming up and the grand garden opening (open invite to climbing buds!) is on saturday night so might be eating and drinking too much for an ideal preparation!

Gonna go for a bath I think to get the bits of meadow and mud out my hair.

Days of climbing freedom coming to an end?

Bad news, I had a job interview at Tesco. This means my days of freely running off with anyone who is kind enough to give me a lift could be over. This brings a tear to my eye as I think about it. A bright sunny day - a text from a climbing bud - "do you want a climb" - A sorry reply - "I have to stack shelves"...

But the cares of tomorrow must wait till this day is done! If this is to be my end, though I hope and pray it not, then I should make such an end as to be worthy of remembrance!

Yeah. So yesterday was an hour interview for a shelf stacker job followed by a trip to Brin Rock for some afternoon bouldering with Andy. It was Andy's first time at the boulders and I was keen to see what he thought of the place. It's obvious the place is firmly on the bottom of pile of places people want to go climbing due to the waist high bracken along the path and many of the boulders. I hope the new Stone Country guide paints a good picture of the place and sparks more interest - The place is Brinming with projects (albeit under 2 foot of moss) and loads of good problems already. Andy was surprised by boulders, having always thought the area to be midge invested, tick invested, overgrown and miserable. I think he had a good time, climbing the classic Spank the Ramp and attempting Brin Done Before and loads of other stuff. I tried Put My New Shoes On again and got a bit further than last time but couldn't find a way to move my heel across and ended up elongated along the lip, completely stuck. Also may have done a new problem - Sit start on a low rail right of Spank the Ramp (on the lip of the small cave) and use razor sharp crimps to make painful progress first right then back left to a good sharp sloper near the top of the Ramp. About V4? Much harder if your skin is sore! And watch you don't crack your head if you fall...

Today it was back to what I've come to know as West Coast Climbing Banter. Anyone can experience this - simply drive to Gruinard, enjoy being there, the climbs you climb and the people your with. Andy drove the Meagan first to Jetty crag (where the midges swarmed) and then away from there pretty quickly to Goat crag which is higher up and fortunately caught a good breeze which kept the midge away and the temps good for some attempts on Goat Prow LH. But first, I warmed up by climbing Teepee and a 6c variation in my walking boots and midge net. Was no easy at all considering I couldn't see nor use any footholds but somehow thugged my way up it.

Goat Prow LH is a belter of a route. It's particularly difficult to repoint due to the Fear. You can only stay hanging from the rope for a short time before the Fear grips and you can't move freely or link moves. You don't want to go any higher and your body resists any upwards movement. The origin of the Fear is unknown. You're a long way up, though the bolts are nicely spaced. It's very airy up there, there feels like a lot of fresh air around, you feel like your very much on the edge of things. The Fear, overlook it at your peril. If you dog it to the top out section, good luck with what feels like a very long run out to the chain.

As I type, I still can feel the pump in my forearms from my redpoint attempts. The ways things worked out, I had time for 2 good goes of sending it. The first went well until the hard throw out to the top out crack. At this point the foot holds turn to shite and I did my best but came off. Attempt 2 was more controlled and thinking I could battle through the pump I threw myself at good incut which was the end of the hard climbing. But it wasn't too be. I dirted a bit disappointed not to sent it as it's awesome. I blamed my lack of stamina on bouldering too much at dumby, to which Andy replied: "your getting higher than me, and I've been route climbing for months!". Andy did well on the route as well, smashing his previous high point and getting to within a few moves of the 'easy' climbing top out.

Back home now and I have a day of rest planned tomorrow, dreading getting a phone call from Tesco. But it hopefully wont be too bad, I have already booked a week off starting on Friday because Cath's coming to visit. Should be good.

The Ruth-ven Boulder

Hello!

If your wondering: 'Why, Mike, have you hyphenated "Ruthven"? Surely its not another spelling mistake which your blog is becoming renowned for?' Well the answer is that the hyphen is indeed deliberate. All will be revealed as the story unfolds...

I need driving lessons so I thought, I know - why not next some of my good old school buddy's, to see who they recommend. Within seconds of sending out texts, I was bombarded with replies, owing to the fact that I'm still immensely popular with these people, despite not speaking to them much for about a year. One reply was from a girl called.... Ruth... who I used to go out with back in the day. I hadn't seen her much since she ---- ruthlessly dumped me a year ago, so when she asked if I 'wana do sumfin?', I debated with myself how much my girlfriend Cath, would mind. Seeing as she knows I'm a trustworthy kinda guy I decided that it wouldn't be too bad an idea to see her again. I was kinda bored sitting at home and should've been looking for a job so a distraction wouldn't be too bad ayee?

Ruth picked me up outside Tesco and I complemented her on her new set of wheels. She asked, 'where do you want to go?' and I kindly suggested going out to the Ruthven boulder. ('I thought we'd go get a coffee or something?' - 'No'). All went fine, the car journey went with out breaking down and we caught up. She told me about how she was desperate for a boyfriend to which I replied 'Sorry love, you've missed your chance with me'. I thought it'd be best to clear that up sooner, rather than later. Being the caring kinda guy that I am, I didn't want her to build up any false hope.

This blog entry could maybe turn a little uncouth, so its at this point we arrive at the boulder and Ruth goes for away a walk, the climbing begins. I've done most the problems here but it was ace to go there and get most of them first or second try of the day. Problems like Sloping off, V4, The Cheeky Girls, V3, Razor's Edge, V7, and Barry Manilow, V6, were done in this fashion. I then tried some that I hadn't climbed, but had tried before. I did the Big Lobowski, V6, after a few tries to work out a good sequence, and then the sit start just to the right of Big Lobo on small crimps. Ben showed it me last year though I couldn't remember the name or grade but think it was about V7 and definitely not one for sore skin.

It was then project time and bugger me, this project is hard.... Excellent. The holds are barely holdable and there is a notable lack of them at the crucial moment. But I'm sure there's a way, it will go - because they always do.

Ruth, by this point had returned from her walk and said she was cold. Courageously, I suggested we should head home. On the way I remembered I was meeting Andy at the wall so it was back to my house to pick up a sandwich, my harness and my wee bro (who's becoming a climbing machine) and onward towards the sports centre. On the way, Edd said 'Mike, what's Cath gonna think about you spending all your time with your ex' which made Ruth all defensive which made me slightly worried which made Edd laugh. Getting out of the car I thanked Ruth very much for what must have been a 25 mile round trip.

On the way up the ramp, Edd asked where I went to day and I told him. 'You went to Ruthven with Ruth?' - 'Yes, what's so funny about that?... o wait - Ruthven hahaha, Edd! What a good joke!!'

Cheerio Team,
Mike

Day Trip

Richie Betts, pioneer, picked me up this morning at 8.30 which in my opinion is far too early. However, it was Andy Wilby, the machine, who made the decision as it was his first Saturday off in a month. We arrived at Andy's and he introduced his dad, Ray, the wise and I said hello to Clare, the bear, who is Andy's woman friend.

I didn't really know where we were going other than "Torridon", but on the way Rich and I had an ethics debate involving Scott Muir, Si O'Conor, mountain bolts, dry tools, patios, boulder pads and that I was gonna flash Riches boulder problem - The Mission. (I know its not ethics but it was discussed in the car, so seems apt to add that bit in here)

The crag of the day is both unpronounceable and unspellable so I'm not going even try. It's the crag with The Torridonian. It's a good crag with a bastard of a walk in. Rich and I tanked 11 e-points between us, the finest being Riches dogged fight up the Torridonian, E3 6a. The going was initially good with the crag being in the shade but the sun soon strolled round the corner which was actually quite nice but pretty soon it became really hot and the pace of the day slowed. Andy had poor showing falling off every route he tried. Cursing his bad luck, he said the only way that the day could be saved was if he too flashed The Mission.

We went down for a swim in the river which was good fun because I like splashing and stuff. We then made the short journey to the Ship boulder which is absolutely mega. With the beta from Rich, I set about my flash attempt. I fell off the first move... It's hard stuff, but a great line and after a few more attempts, I stuck the first move. Then tried Malc's Arete which is also an amazing problem but I couldn't make the last move. Still a very cool boulder, one which gets Rich very psyched. Andy didn't flash nor send anything and we were munched by midges.

A few days off climbing now, I'm going to visit my sheep.

The Road Trip

This eve's yarn is of a road trip of incomparable enjoyment and climbing pleasure. Indeed, it had everything - Sunshine, Trad, Sport, Bouldering, Indoor Seshes, Midges... It was the shizzle to my nizzle.

Myself, Donald and his dad cruised out to Tollaidh Crags and met up with Murdoch and Megan who were understandably taking it easy after doing 3 routes. Donald led Assault slab, a V Diff, then we walked over to Dinosaur Buttress which provided great enjoyment! I led Scarlatina E2, In the Pink, HVS, and Rouged-up, the E3 variation, (I need the e-points to catch up!!) Donald conquered his first HVS trad lead - a fine effort up the well protected Flushed-out.

Donald departed and Murdoch and I went for a cruise around the area after dropping Megan off. We went round all the top secret crags and bouldering venues* trying to escape to midges and eventually we arrived at a place known to locals as Colin's Bouldering wall at the Mountain Rescue Base... Murdoch, being a member of the mountain rescue team, said we could camp here for the night. We set up camp by carrying through armchairs and putting on some Primal Screen at this amazing, overhanging woody and had a yummy plate of pasta with chopped veg and pasta sauce. A hard boulder sesh ensued and I managed a problem that I set last time I was there involving a clever knee bar and wild campus move! Soon it was time for bed (which was no thermarest, but Jim B's mattress come boulder mat!).

Next day - Ardmair! It was hot. Murdoch cruised up Friends Retrieval, which I thought was excellent E1 climbing, then I climbed Colour Co-ordinated, E1. We were then joined by Rob, A colleague of Murdoch's, with a very dirty mind - shocking. Murdoch is keen to try and tick the crag and he's done most the stuff below E5 so he attempted Thorn in My Side, an E3. After a fluff up on route reading, he was going well until he got to the undercut, top out slab. Complaining that the rock was too hot, his hands were too greasy and the crack too wide for a good jam, the climbing too damn hard, he retreated up an E1 corner chimney, swearing a lot. When he made it to the top, it was my turn to second ("Watch out Rob - this crack is wet" - "In any other situation, that would be a good thing, Mike" - "Eh? how is a wet cra.... oh. Good one, Rob!") Then I got stuck in the chimney ("How the fuck did you get up here Murdoch?" - "Aye, it's a fucking fight! How do you think I felt with a shit load of drag!")

After abbing off we agreed it was far too hot for cragging so we went for a boulder sesh on the beach in hope of catching a sea breeze to keep us cool. On the way, we each bought an ice cream from the campsite - mmmmmm! It was a good sesh - I did a few of the harder problems though there is still stuff to do. Like most boulder seshs, conversation turned to the myth of Si O'Conor. Murdoch was adamant that the man was a legend for stirring up so much shit and getting a lot of people pissed off. He said that Si will always get the last laugh. I was partial to agree with him, though I thought, what does it matter, as the great Dawes said: "people seem away all the time... They should just do their own thing!". I added perhaps a new problem, might have been done before, on an undercut pebbly boulder 15-20m left of the main wall. It starts from a sloper near the lip on the bottom right of the boulder, then you use a left heal hook to gain two slopey pockets and then throw for another sloper come jug. Rob and I worked the problem together and he got it first try after me - good effort!! I gave it V16 originally, though I think V5/font 6C is more accurate. The name Teo Sio is an abbreviation, good luck guessing what it means!

After shredding our tips on the beach, the three of us scrambled along the Rhue coast line, past some amazing jutting prows and roofs. We sat in the evening sun for a bit then, on our way back, we saw Lawrence Hughes and his wife, Liz, on some bouldering on top of the hill so joined them for a while. Lawrence showed us an amazing cave which goes right through the hill side for 30 metres or so, with an excellent on-the-belly top out. He then gave us a quick tour of the problems, saying it was a great place to come after work, especially if you work 5 mins away...

After a well earned fish and chips in Ullapool, Murdoch and I headed back to the base. On the way I asked him how he thought the road trip was going. He said, "Amazing, apart from I haven't done any climbing yet!" We both agreed that when the weather's good, there's no better place than the West, and we certainly weren't jealous of Ben and Nick in Ceuse.

This lack of climbing soon came to an end on day three - Creag Nan Luch! This crag is described in the guide as one of the finest sport crags in Scotland, though I'd only been there once before where I only climbed on the upper tier. Today though, I wanted to get some hard onsighting on the lower tier. We arrived with Megan just as the sun disappeared behind the hillside giving us shade and sending temps, unlike the day before's furness. I warmed up with onsights of Ni Dubh, 6b, psychopomp, 6b, and Toss, 6c+, which was a particularly excellent climb. I then fell off the last move of Unfinished Business, 7a+ (marked as 'project' in the guide), though got it next try and came really close to flashing Shottabeena, 7b+ (7c in the guide, but easier with the discovery of a hidden pocket), falling whilst trying to clip the penultimate draw. A thanks goes to Murdoch for a topnotch belay, taking in a yard of slack as I fell! The rest of the day was spent trying to redpoint Shottabeena though the smoothness and concentration which I had for my flash attempt had disappeared off somewhere, though on my last attempt of the day I was going for the finishing jug when I remembered Murdoch saying "I once fell off the last move on the redpoint" and I thought "Yeah, only an idiot would fall off hereeee - fucckkkkkkkkkk!!!" and was none too happy when I didn't stick the move... Murdoch did well to repeat Shottabeena and came close to repeating Superblue, 7b+. Megan also was climbing well on the 6b's before mentioned, thwarted only by maybe a slight laps in concentration.

We headed to Loch Marie to arse around for a bit and were promptly eaten by swarms of midges.

Next destination on the the road trip was the long anticipated opening of Andy Wilby's garage bouldering wall. Murdoch and I doubted how much pulling we'd be able to muster, having not had much to eat and a hard day climbing, but the sight of the wall and a slice of pizza soon put tired arms and sore skin to the back of our minds. The Wall was christened 'Witness the Fitness' and is a well constructed wall indeed. Soon there were loads of gnarly problems being put up by Rich Betts, Rob, Murdoch, Andy and myself. Andy has no excuses now, unless the dreaded tendonitis kicks in from over use!

Anyway, sorry that there's no pictures, that's all from me now...
Cheerio, Mike



*A top secret guide will be available soon containing all the the secret crags priced at a mere £500. In order to maintain secrecy, it is written in ink which is only visible in light of a full moon reflected off Loch Marie at the Easter equinox. Or so I'm told. Sounds a bit fishy to me really. £500? Who has that kinda money??

Dear blog, Mood: down hearted.

It's raining. I have an umbrella but it's no use when I want to go climbing... or is it...

Idea one.

Maybe not...

Even then I still don't have a fast enough way of getting somewhere before its time to go home.... Or do i....

Idea two

I'm a bit bored.

On the plus, my house here in Inverness has much more user friendly door frames which I have been using to develop one arm skills which appear to be lacking.

On the down, It's raining.

As an after thought - I'm so impressed with my wee cartoons, I'm gonna send them to gravity magazine.

Surmations

No, I'm not sure if thats a word.

Last september I left my home in Inverness for Glasgow in search of hard projects. Now, I'm back in Inverness, it's time to re-adjust to cooked meals and a double bed. But first I think a few reflections on the past months. As with everything, things seemed to have occured with good thing having a complementary bad thing so I've tried to twin them together in hope of a humerous effect:

plus: Meeting loads of psyched climberscat Ibrox
minus: Finding out that they're all wall rats!!

plus: Dumby
minus: every other crag in the lowlands

plus: Climbing Sufferance
minus: trying to climb sufference in shit freezing weather

Minus: running out of money to go to the Ibrox
Plus: Saving money by going to dumby
Minus: the weather being 10 times worse at dumby than at the wall
Plus: a handful of nice evenings.

Plus: 2 cakes for a pound at the co-op near Dumby
Minus: the day the offer went away.

Plus: sleeping in a cave on the Cobbler
Minus: not getting to sleep in a cave on the Cobbler

Plus: Glen Coe!
Minus: Tunnel wall epic

Plus: Stanage
Minus: Rain

Plus: the Auchy - Dumby Double
Minus: Taking 3 hours to find Auchy

Plus: Julian Lines Lecture
Minus: catching the last bus back to glasgow afterwards with a weegie drunk

Plus: Doing all the moves of my flat traverse
Minus: Failing to link it on my last day in Glasgow.

Plus: Dumby Banter with Danny, Simon, Dave Mac, John, Peter, Stewart, Stewart, Ross H, the neds, others...
Minus: Ibrox banter with people more psyched for going round and round the 45 board than hard projects.

Plus: Going to the pub with danny after hard dumby sesh
Minus: Getting wasted after 3 pints!

Plus: Mike - "Fuck it - I'm not gonna do it..."
Minus: Dave Mac - "That's not an E11 quote!"

Plus: Getting Stew Brown Psyched!!
Minus: None

I'm sure there were plenty other highlights and lowlights but my mum is wanting me to help in the garden - moving railway sleepers to make a wall of sorts I believe. Could be good training?

Also if anyone knows of any good jobs going for a young man like myself in inverness - drop me a comment please!

Also, I don't seem to have a driving liscense yet and my regular partner up here has gone to ceuse for the summer, so, am looking to make a few new buds in Inverness s'long as they have a car - drop a comment!!!

Gotta Go BYEEE!

The 'E point' League

Hey everyone,

Introducing a new feature to improve your blog reading experience - If you would like to enter the 2007 E point league drop me a comment with a name you would like to be known by and the number of E points you've gained since January 1st 2007.

E1 = 1 point
E2 = 2 points
E3 = 3 points
E4 = 4 points

...get the idea?

Onsights, solos, ground ups, headpoints all get awarded the same points for a particular route. Top ropes, Pre-placed gear and repeats of routes you've done already are not in!

'It's like 8a.nu for Trad'

Hard Grit

Ay up, everyone!

Well, exam revision is in full swing, but with an offer of a lift from Climber Dude, Paul, down to the Peak District, I (somehow) managed to talk myself into putting down the notes and pack the harness for a weekend of Grit stone fun with Danny.

Dumby Dan (to give him his new nickname), often talked passionately about the climbing in the Peak, telling stories of how he was reduced to Server climbs when he first tussled with its delights, how he was benighted on a roof with the rope stuck in a crack... With this is mind I was maybe slightly puzzled - he seemed to love it.

I'd climbed on Grit once before when I was about 12 or 13, returning from a B.R.Y.C.S. final in Sheffield with Mr Mackenzie and the Scotland North team. Just topping roping easier climbing and I barely remember it - not the Hard Grit experience I was looking for from this trip.

We arrived at North Lees campsite in the dark and the pouring rain. In our haste to put the tent up and with the lack of being able to see, we pitched it on the only piece of ground with molehills. ("Mike, this is really uncomfortable" - "Danny, stop making a mountain out of a molehill").

After a brilliant nights sleep, and a delicious breakfast we trekked up to Stanage. Heading past the swarms of Bumblys at the popular end, I was drawn to the awesome looking roof of Flying Buttress. This brought back another grit horror story for Danny, involving super pump and a promise he made to himself never to go up there again... Undeterred I went for it and managed to top it by not too heavily contemplating the 'Pendulum of Pain' fall if I came off going over the lip.
Danny then attempted the groove on the right but I can't remember what its called. He couldn't make it over the steep rock (a recurring theme) which meant another E point of me - woo!

After this I climbed a lovely E2 with a hard boulder V3 problem start, probably my favourite grit route so far, and I've done 8 routes so we're talking creme de la creme.
By recommendation, I then climbed Wuthering, an E2 providing interesting climbing with yet another 'Pendulum of Pain' if you were to fall popping across on the the slab from the chimney. I was pretty close to the fall, but somehow managed to hold an ominous feeling barn door. As I topped out on the slab, the rain came on (another recurring theme). After a while of hiding, I figured I'd be easier for me to ab to get the gear than for Danny to climb the slab, come water slide. This made for an interesting time trying to get a nut out from the deep chimney... Guess you have to know the route to see what I'm on about, but it felt quite scary.

I had a go at onsighting the E5 between the two famous Unconquerable routes. It seemed like it might go - well protected though a biggish fall, one British 6b stopper move and hopefully easier ground to the top. I warmed up by doing a wee hand traverse ("How did you sleep last night, Seb?" - "Haha, pretty bad, I never sleep well before a dodgy ascent!"). As it happened, I fell below the stopper move but maybe if I had a bit more luck on my side it might've gone... Certainly felt quite close, perhaps E5 on my first day on grit is too much to ask!

After another shower we walked to Crescent Arete, E1/V2, which we both sent after a few attempts were backed off. We then took a look a the striking Archangel, an E3 which gave me the heebee-geebees just looking at it. The rain come on again and we enjoyed a good soaking as we made our way back to the drying room (or the 'not wet room') at the campsite. Back in the tent, despite being rained on for most of the day, I thoroughly agree with Danny - Grit stone is amazing!

The following day was not so good however. I climbed Right Unconquerable to 'warm up' where I got extremely pumped and did not enjoy the top out one bit. Danny the tried an E2 where the only gear was a number 2 nut behind a flake which got wider and wider as you tried to set the nut untill it fell out the bottom. With a really bad landing, we both agreed to move on.

I tried an E3 pebble pulling slab. This didn't work out so well as I tried jumping for the out-of-reach break. My paaps has told me to leave the scary bits out of the blog, so all I'll say is the result of the leap made the return car journey particularly uncomfortable.
Danny lead August Arete at HVS as the rain came on. We hid in a cave for a while before deciding there was no point as the rain wasn't stopping. Yet again, we got soaked as we walked back to the tent.

We made our way to Harrosage where Climber Dude, Paul, picked us up and we were soon heading up north back to Glasgow. I revised some cosmology in the car (to keep my dad happy) and I better get back to the books just now, though I could struggle as my room is now more the outside of a trying tent than a study - not the best learning environment! :(

Cheerio Team,
Mike

The Cobbler and other things

Some dismissed it instantly, others rolled their eyes in disbelief - but it happened, Danny and I spent a night in a cave below the North Peak of the Cobbler. In April. It can snow in April. I wouldn't have been surprised if did snow. It was bloody cold.

I'm not quite sure why we thought it would be a good idea... but it was along the same thinking that sent us up there at the beginning of March (in a storm) looking to do the same thing... Thinking about that now, it was a pretty stupid thing to do, and I'm sure in a month, looking back on this trip, I'll be thinking 'how daft can you get?!' but the thing about these trips is - they don't feel daft at the time.

So, up you go. This was my fourth attempt to top out on the Cobbler, previous attempts being shut down by gales, sleet, snow, rain and myself getting upset about bad weather... This time, however, blue skies overhead made us optimistic about our chances as we set off on the well rehearsed strenuous moves up the path. Before long we were up the gully/path below the North peak and all of a sudden the enclosed feeling was replaced with an open aspect and spectacular scenery. From here the awesome triple peak formation of the mountain can be taken in. Danny commented "Right now, we are in one of the most beautiful places in the world." I fully agreed.

We found an excellent looking place to sleep under a big boulder. It came fully fitted with old candles and other litter debris which gave the place an authentic feel. The rubbish reminded be of the boulders at Dumbarton - a home from home. I wasn't too impressed.

We dumped our stuff and headed up to take advantage of the last of the light and climb Recess Route. A Classic going deep into a chimney on the North peak. The climbing style was fast with Danny setting the pace on the on pitch one placing a total of zero pieces of gear. I bettered him by managing to place a thread on the second. Danny equalled my record by clipping a piece of tat on a combination of the last two pitches.

We made our way down to the cave and settling in for what was anticipated to be a sterling nights sleep. Not the case. I spent the night cowering in my bivi bag, throwing on as many clothes as I had (including my towel) to keep warm. At times I heard Danny snoring and the jealousy made me think 'what a complete bastard'.

After this superb nights sleep we 'dragged' ourselves out of the cave ("thank fuck we're out of that shit hole" - "I'm looking forward to sleeping there tonight... I don't think!"). We headed for Punster's Crack, another classic - which went really well apart from Danny getting stuck at the '6b' bridging move, and myself getting shivery cold with the wait ("Are you up for winter climbing next season, Mike?" - "Argrgrghghhhghhhh noooooooo!!!!"). After this we topped out on the Middle peak - completing my headpoint ascent of the mountain. Yes! We then descended to the south peak where we cruised up Argantian Arete I think it was called.

I couldn't help wanting to climb the awesome looking steep slab of Osiris. It's E4 and that's harder than I've ever onsighted before but, you know, I was climbing well... That week I'd managed to send one of my Dumby projects Totality which has 6c moves on it and the slab had, by the looks of it, one 6a move low down over an overlap and then maybe 5c or 5b moves to the top. And there were pegs, albeit rusty looking ones... So I thought I'd give it a go. Within 5 seconds, I'd fallen off. Put that down to the move off the ground being harder than I thought.

"That bit's VS!" Danny helpfully pointed out.

After that I manged to get over the overlap in a on-er but my foot slipped clipping the peg which lead to a swinging (but not too violent) fall. I pulled up on the rope and manged to get establish on the slab and make a series of ever more scary moves higher and higher above the good thread... After careful consideration I decided I would not be going any higher and I probably could down climb to the gear.

"I'm not up for it, Danny"

I hastily started reversing finger tip mantles. Before long my foot stepped on the rope and down I came with an eyes-closed fall. Danny lowered me to the ground where I lay with my face in the grass trying to regain the mental composure to be at head height was more.

After a recuperation session involving some good banter and a cereal bar, Danny lead off on the classic E1 - Gladiator's Groove. It says in the guide 'a confident approach is needed' so I was really quite relieved when Danny took pitch one. After some 15m of climbing he yelled down "Yes, some gear!" He then tussled with the traverse, some 10m to the right of his gear before finding a neat cam placement which gave him the confidence to complete the pitch. I was enjoying the climbing on the second pitch until a large flat ledge appeared and require a fair amount of groping and grunting to surmount!

Once we'd topped out we lay on the rocks above the crag in the sun. This provided welcome relief from the son-of-a-bitch wind and a chance to rest weary heads (surprising after such a great nights sleep!)

Here, we decided that sleeping in the cave would not be a good idea for the night so left the peak early to eat the remains of our food ratios and pack up our stuff. I've never been so glad to leave a mountain. Nor have I been so glad of a comfy and warm bed to sleep in. I now have a great respect to the shipbuilders of the Clyde who stayed on the mountain before Thermarests!

The other things are basically that I went to Dumby on Tuesday. It was really nice and sunny which is always good for bringing the local youths out to play. I'm starting to be able to classify them as follows:

Idiots: older neds with bottles of Buckfast an a keen interest in climbing. Will always ask if you've climbed that [pointing to Requiem] and will look at you as if they're trying to decide if your a circus freak or top end sports person. Will also ask questions like 'Uni, eh?'.

Crazies: NITs (Neds In Training) wearing Celtic tops, who run around playing a violent version of hide and seek. you'll recognise one from E11. They climb up the back of the Eagle Boulder in Nike trainers with alarming boldness. They need to invest in a pair of 5.10's in my opinion.

Fire-starters: To be avoided/dreaded.

I managed to get a project which I first tried in September on my first visit to Dumbarton - the super sweet Consolidated. Yasss!! Also got a 7b sport route - Half Breed on my 4th go or something which was a bit of a disappointment.

Anyway, I need to start studying for Uni exams so the blog might get sidelined for a while :( but hopefully the climbing won't - trip to the peak next weekend!

Cheerio, Mike