Double Repeated (almost!)

Last Sunday I came close to repeating my greatest ever climbing feat - climbing E5 and 8a (the double) in one weekend.

My radio alarm went off at 6.30am to the tune of some christian lord praising number. I hadn't bothered to tune my radio to anything in particular the night before and as luck would have it I woke with the good news that God sent his own son to die for my sins - a huge relief.

With a morally clear mind I made it into town to catch the Scotbus at 8am. It didnt turn up till 8.20am though it still seemed to think £2.80 to get to dingwall was just.

From Dingwall, Andy picked me up with Clare and Murdoch and we headed west.

Weather: suspiciously overcast

We arrived at Tolliadh Crags and walked through a squelchy bog (wellies - I cant get enough of them at the moment - superb) Andy Lead an E1 which we all had a bash at seconding, but my eye had been drawn to an uncomprimising E5 called Crossroads going over a steep overhanging buldge. Short, well protected, 6b. I hoped I would suit me due to the bouldering spree I've been on. I set off on the lead having been lowered off for a wee look at it. Weather: Raining. Backed off to don my waterproof trousers and gave it another bash. I established on a poor sidepull, worked my feet up, and threw to a 2 finger slot in a crack. Unfortunatly I only caught it with one finger and didnt have the tension to 'bounce' to get another finger in. I fell off and almost kicked Murdoch in the head. Dejected, I restorted to tried and tested headpoint tactics, which worked! Pulling on to the jugs above the buldge, sunlight found its way through the dark clouds and I felt its pleasant warmth on my face. It's always nice when that happens. I need more mileage, thats obvious to me. But at the same time I want to climb routes to remember. I dont get trad climbing very much so I'm always tempted to go for hard stuff just incase I might get a breakthrough send and all of a sudden I'll have the ability and knowledge to onsight E4's, E5's... regularly. I'm going to the peak in August and I've promised myself to do loads and loads of E1's, E2's and E3's so see what happens.

Weather update: pishing with rain.

I'm sitting in the car with Murdoch and Megan, who turned up 'for the banter'. I find a book on the backseat which takes my mind off the rain for a while. It's an I spy affair, I have to locate various fairy tale characters hidden within a picture. Murdoch has trouble with it, he doesn't know what tom thumb looks like. The rain clears but so has the breeze. We are soon sorting out gear for some afternoon sport climbing when here come the midges. Oh God. Noooooo!! Jesus fucking Christ fuck midges I hate them. The Faith I found this morning seems to have gone out the window. I'm sorry, how can I love all creatures great and small when there are midges biting my face and neck and hands, and, moreover, what kind of God would create such foul monsters! Not a very good one, that much is obvious. I run round in a circle in hope of making the buggers dizzy but it doesnt work.

We arrive a top secret west coast sport climbing crag called Kuhjo Crag. Topo out soon though! I try a project which has the suggested grade of 8a. It takes me a while, but I think I get all the moves. I'm too pooped to go for a redpoint. The top out feels desperate but might not be too bad with after a rest. One thing is for sure - it will go. They always do.

Thanks to Murdoch for heroic belaying both on the E5 and project!

Travelling back now. I fall asleep in the car. Home. Dinner. Bath. Bed.