The Susurrus

My dad phones, he just got my text, its 5pm but he's up for giving me a lift to Brin Boulders at about 6. I give Nic Duboust a call, not seen him in a while, keen to climb with an actual climber, the project might go...

We arrive a Brin, the promising breeze dies as we enter the woods, the midge arrive, my dad retreats. We pad out the Big Roof boulder with pads belonging to a variety of different climbers, 6 pads in total, each one definately needed. I put my shoes on whilst desperatly slapping midgies. My skin regrown, I pull on the first moves and climb through the intial boulder problem to get to the roof and get to the lip. I'm not really warmed up so not really suprised that I dont make it. I let my breathing recover and try again. And again. Again.

Midgies are eating my face by now, Nick has put his shoes on. I've just fallen off slapping the top sloper and decide if it doesn't go this time I'm getting out of this motherfuckingshithole. Breathing back to normal, I crawl back into the lying start, get the heel toe in and lie back, chalk up, and go. The first hard move, a throw to a slopey slide sloper is stuck. Foot up and now the crux rock over kinda move to a small crimp. I overcook it a wee bit and twist outward but regain purchase and move to the incut flake. My fingers are too fat to really make the most of this so I quickly move to the next good incut and then onto the good hold on the lip. This is where my feet come off, No more foothold till your rocking over the top. I campus in to match the hold, out with my left to a side pull, adjust right slightly and campus! The top sloper is stuck, but only just. Still, I can't believe it!! I bump my hand up and, with a wee power grunt, I'm in. I campus to cross over and match, then again to correct the cross over, and again to gain the jugs. Rock over using grass. Excellent!!!! Wooo!! Yeessss! Woooo!!

However, I feel like I stole Ben's project. We were both working it to together, both falling off at the crux campus. It would of been a close thing to see would do it first and it would've been cool to have a climb off with him for the FA. He also was kind enough to give me lifts and beta and use of pads, so, Ben - Thanks! (ben is in England). Note to Ben: I think it took me 4/5 attempts today so try and beat that! It also sucks cos now I have to grade it - think V9 is probably fair, though I've never done one. (reasoning is that I think its V8 to get to the roof). Chose to call it The Susurrus, which is a pretty cool word reflecting the idea that the project had been whispering/murmuring in my mind for like a week! Crazy.

I'm so psyched...

Pic's will hopefully follow...