Bad news, I had a job interview at Tesco. This means my days of freely running off with anyone who is kind enough to give me a lift could be over. This brings a tear to my eye as I think about it. A bright sunny day - a text from a climbing bud - "do you want a climb" - A sorry reply - "I have to stack shelves"...
But the cares of tomorrow must wait till this day is done! If this is to be my end, though I hope and pray it not, then I should make such an end as to be worthy of remembrance!
Yeah. So yesterday was an hour interview for a shelf stacker job followed by a trip to Brin Rock for some afternoon bouldering with Andy. It was Andy's first time at the boulders and I was keen to see what he thought of the place. It's obvious the place is firmly on the bottom of pile of places people want to go climbing due to the waist high bracken along the path and many of the boulders. I hope the new Stone Country guide paints a good picture of the place and sparks more interest - The place is Brinming with projects (albeit under 2 foot of moss) and loads of good problems already. Andy was surprised by boulders, having always thought the area to be midge invested, tick invested, overgrown and miserable. I think he had a good time, climbing the classic Spank the Ramp and attempting Brin Done Before and loads of other stuff. I tried Put My New Shoes On again and got a bit further than last time but couldn't find a way to move my heel across and ended up elongated along the lip, completely stuck. Also may have done a new problem - Sit start on a low rail right of Spank the Ramp (on the lip of the small cave) and use razor sharp crimps to make painful progress first right then back left to a good sharp sloper near the top of the Ramp. About V4? Much harder if your skin is sore! And watch you don't crack your head if you fall...
Today it was back to what I've come to know as West Coast Climbing Banter. Anyone can experience this - simply drive to Gruinard, enjoy being there, the climbs you climb and the people your with. Andy drove the Meagan first to Jetty crag (where the midges swarmed) and then away from there pretty quickly to Goat crag which is higher up and fortunately caught a good breeze which kept the midge away and the temps good for some attempts on Goat Prow LH. But first, I warmed up by climbing Teepee and a 6c variation in my walking boots and midge net. Was no easy at all considering I couldn't see nor use any footholds but somehow thugged my way up it.
Goat Prow LH is a belter of a route. It's particularly difficult to repoint due to the Fear. You can only stay hanging from the rope for a short time before the Fear grips and you can't move freely or link moves. You don't want to go any higher and your body resists any upwards movement. The origin of the Fear is unknown. You're a long way up, though the bolts are nicely spaced. It's very airy up there, there feels like a lot of fresh air around, you feel like your very much on the edge of things. The Fear, overlook it at your peril. If you dog it to the top out section, good luck with what feels like a very long run out to the chain.
As I type, I still can feel the pump in my forearms from my redpoint attempts. The ways things worked out, I had time for 2 good goes of sending it. The first went well until the hard throw out to the top out crack. At this point the foot holds turn to shite and I did my best but came off. Attempt 2 was more controlled and thinking I could battle through the pump I threw myself at good incut which was the end of the hard climbing. But it wasn't too be. I dirted a bit disappointed not to sent it as it's awesome. I blamed my lack of stamina on bouldering too much at dumby, to which Andy replied: "your getting higher than me, and I've been route climbing for months!". Andy did well on the route as well, smashing his previous high point and getting to within a few moves of the 'easy' climbing top out.
Back home now and I have a day of rest planned tomorrow, dreading getting a phone call from Tesco. But it hopefully wont be too bad, I have already booked a week off starting on Friday because Cath's coming to visit. Should be good.
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