Hello, I am at home, about to eventually sort out driving lessons (at last!), but first a quick run down of last weeks climbing action.
There was none.
This was because Cath was not psyched for standing round watching climbing in the rain, and I was keen to keep her happy, not only because she was a tad unhappy about a previous blog post, but also because seeing her happy makes me happy too. :)
However, Last night I had a monster sesh on Andy's new home wall. On it, I have yet to set a problem that anyone can do. This is because people can't seem to hold slopers on a roof with no feet... Thanks goes to Andy for a superbly defrosted Spaghetti bolognese and for letting me crash!
Other good news is I found out how to put a counter onto my blog - scroll down the bottom of this page to see it. This way I can keep up to date with how popular I am and also let everyone else know too! Excellent. I was going to start the counter at a modest 100,000 views, but thought 0 is plenty.
Friday, 29 June 2007
Wednesday, 20 June 2007
The Misty Boulders
I was about to go to the wall when I received a text from Richie Betts. All of a sudden the wall was no longer an option and we were heading out through some fog to duntelchaig. We agreed to go check out Richie's new problem the Dagger. The weather was marginal but the psyche levels were sufficently high that we made the walk through some boggy heather. We had a quick warm up, then Rich ran me through the beta of the Dagger. Could it be a historic flashed second ascent?
The flash attempt
I made it through the intail moves really quickly thanks to the top notch beta. Then looked up to the sloper on the lip. It looked a long way off. Nonetheless, I gave it some welly and was lucky enough to stick the move. Woo!! Rich and I had a think about the grade, reckon its maybe slightly easier - maybe V5 but probably V6 for the short.
We were midway through cleaning up another line (the arete you can see in the above photo) when it started to rain. Packing up seemed like the sensible option but we thought we'd check out the overhanging wall further along. ("Hey Mike - this wall looks dry" - "I think we should get rock shoes back on as soon as possible, Rich!")
The fog was very thick which made conditions not too ideal for sending but the midges had a great time. Not only that, my pinky finger started to bleed from too much cracking. But we got a few sends - the finest being this here crack:
Knife Wound - V7
Name inspired by the awesome line of the Dagger and the fact that my pinky was bleeding quite badly at the time. I think its about V7 - the hold my left hand is on is really hard to catch, then you have to match it! Probably a sandbag for the short again...
We thought it had never been visited before but I've been speaking to Andrew - sounded like he'd been up there so maybe its been climbed a bit but seems unlikely... In the car on the way back we agreed we need a couple more seshions to tidy the place up etc then a topo will be made! Watch this space!
Tuesday, 19 June 2007
Ruthven part 2
Done all the lines on the Ruthven boulder that I know about - woo! - Must ask John Watson is there are any additions to the Stone country guide...
No Job still.
Weeded the garden/meadow.
Confused by bolt debate on SC - how can someone be so stubborn as to remove bolts from a naff crag? If he was that psyched for these routes, why wait 3 years? 3 years!! Thats a sixth of my life! If I had a trad project and someone bolted it, I would be pure raggin'! Something doesn't quite add up. And I'm also amazed people are so worked up about such an uninspiring piece of rock. It's really all quite... bitter.
I need to focus on getting really psyched for Goat Prow. I'll hopefully get another go at the route this weekend. But Cath's coming up and the grand garden opening (open invite to climbing buds!) is on saturday night so might be eating and drinking too much for an ideal preparation!
Gonna go for a bath I think to get the bits of meadow and mud out my hair.
No Job still.
Weeded the garden/meadow.
Confused by bolt debate on SC - how can someone be so stubborn as to remove bolts from a naff crag? If he was that psyched for these routes, why wait 3 years? 3 years!! Thats a sixth of my life! If I had a trad project and someone bolted it, I would be pure raggin'! Something doesn't quite add up. And I'm also amazed people are so worked up about such an uninspiring piece of rock. It's really all quite... bitter.
I need to focus on getting really psyched for Goat Prow. I'll hopefully get another go at the route this weekend. But Cath's coming up and the grand garden opening (open invite to climbing buds!) is on saturday night so might be eating and drinking too much for an ideal preparation!
Gonna go for a bath I think to get the bits of meadow and mud out my hair.
Saturday, 16 June 2007
Days of climbing freedom coming to an end?
Bad news, I had a job interview at Tesco. This means my days of freely running off with anyone who is kind enough to give me a lift could be over. This brings a tear to my eye as I think about it. A bright sunny day - a text from a climbing bud - "do you want a climb" - A sorry reply - "I have to stack shelves"...
But the cares of tomorrow must wait till this day is done! If this is to be my end, though I hope and pray it not, then I should make such an end as to be worthy of remembrance!
Yeah. So yesterday was an hour interview for a shelf stacker job followed by a trip to Brin Rock for some afternoon bouldering with Andy. It was Andy's first time at the boulders and I was keen to see what he thought of the place. It's obvious the place is firmly on the bottom of pile of places people want to go climbing due to the waist high bracken along the path and many of the boulders. I hope the new Stone Country guide paints a good picture of the place and sparks more interest - The place is Brinming with projects (albeit under 2 foot of moss) and loads of good problems already. Andy was surprised by boulders, having always thought the area to be midge invested, tick invested, overgrown and miserable. I think he had a good time, climbing the classic Spank the Ramp and attempting Brin Done Before and loads of other stuff. I tried Put My New Shoes On again and got a bit further than last time but couldn't find a way to move my heel across and ended up elongated along the lip, completely stuck. Also may have done a new problem - Sit start on a low rail right of Spank the Ramp (on the lip of the small cave) and use razor sharp crimps to make painful progress first right then back left to a good sharp sloper near the top of the Ramp. About V4? Much harder if your skin is sore! And watch you don't crack your head if you fall...
Today it was back to what I've come to know as West Coast Climbing Banter. Anyone can experience this - simply drive to Gruinard, enjoy being there, the climbs you climb and the people your with. Andy drove the Meagan first to Jetty crag (where the midges swarmed) and then away from there pretty quickly to Goat crag which is higher up and fortunately caught a good breeze which kept the midge away and the temps good for some attempts on Goat Prow LH. But first, I warmed up by climbing Teepee and a 6c variation in my walking boots and midge net. Was no easy at all considering I couldn't see nor use any footholds but somehow thugged my way up it.
Goat Prow LH is a belter of a route. It's particularly difficult to repoint due to the Fear. You can only stay hanging from the rope for a short time before the Fear grips and you can't move freely or link moves. You don't want to go any higher and your body resists any upwards movement. The origin of the Fear is unknown. You're a long way up, though the bolts are nicely spaced. It's very airy up there, there feels like a lot of fresh air around, you feel like your very much on the edge of things. The Fear, overlook it at your peril. If you dog it to the top out section, good luck with what feels like a very long run out to the chain.
As I type, I still can feel the pump in my forearms from my redpoint attempts. The ways things worked out, I had time for 2 good goes of sending it. The first went well until the hard throw out to the top out crack. At this point the foot holds turn to shite and I did my best but came off. Attempt 2 was more controlled and thinking I could battle through the pump I threw myself at good incut which was the end of the hard climbing. But it wasn't too be. I dirted a bit disappointed not to sent it as it's awesome. I blamed my lack of stamina on bouldering too much at dumby, to which Andy replied: "your getting higher than me, and I've been route climbing for months!". Andy did well on the route as well, smashing his previous high point and getting to within a few moves of the 'easy' climbing top out.
Back home now and I have a day of rest planned tomorrow, dreading getting a phone call from Tesco. But it hopefully wont be too bad, I have already booked a week off starting on Friday because Cath's coming to visit. Should be good.
But the cares of tomorrow must wait till this day is done! If this is to be my end, though I hope and pray it not, then I should make such an end as to be worthy of remembrance!
Yeah. So yesterday was an hour interview for a shelf stacker job followed by a trip to Brin Rock for some afternoon bouldering with Andy. It was Andy's first time at the boulders and I was keen to see what he thought of the place. It's obvious the place is firmly on the bottom of pile of places people want to go climbing due to the waist high bracken along the path and many of the boulders. I hope the new Stone Country guide paints a good picture of the place and sparks more interest - The place is Brinming with projects (albeit under 2 foot of moss) and loads of good problems already. Andy was surprised by boulders, having always thought the area to be midge invested, tick invested, overgrown and miserable. I think he had a good time, climbing the classic Spank the Ramp and attempting Brin Done Before and loads of other stuff. I tried Put My New Shoes On again and got a bit further than last time but couldn't find a way to move my heel across and ended up elongated along the lip, completely stuck. Also may have done a new problem - Sit start on a low rail right of Spank the Ramp (on the lip of the small cave) and use razor sharp crimps to make painful progress first right then back left to a good sharp sloper near the top of the Ramp. About V4? Much harder if your skin is sore! And watch you don't crack your head if you fall...
Today it was back to what I've come to know as West Coast Climbing Banter. Anyone can experience this - simply drive to Gruinard, enjoy being there, the climbs you climb and the people your with. Andy drove the Meagan first to Jetty crag (where the midges swarmed) and then away from there pretty quickly to Goat crag which is higher up and fortunately caught a good breeze which kept the midge away and the temps good for some attempts on Goat Prow LH. But first, I warmed up by climbing Teepee and a 6c variation in my walking boots and midge net. Was no easy at all considering I couldn't see nor use any footholds but somehow thugged my way up it.
Goat Prow LH is a belter of a route. It's particularly difficult to repoint due to the Fear. You can only stay hanging from the rope for a short time before the Fear grips and you can't move freely or link moves. You don't want to go any higher and your body resists any upwards movement. The origin of the Fear is unknown. You're a long way up, though the bolts are nicely spaced. It's very airy up there, there feels like a lot of fresh air around, you feel like your very much on the edge of things. The Fear, overlook it at your peril. If you dog it to the top out section, good luck with what feels like a very long run out to the chain.
As I type, I still can feel the pump in my forearms from my redpoint attempts. The ways things worked out, I had time for 2 good goes of sending it. The first went well until the hard throw out to the top out crack. At this point the foot holds turn to shite and I did my best but came off. Attempt 2 was more controlled and thinking I could battle through the pump I threw myself at good incut which was the end of the hard climbing. But it wasn't too be. I dirted a bit disappointed not to sent it as it's awesome. I blamed my lack of stamina on bouldering too much at dumby, to which Andy replied: "your getting higher than me, and I've been route climbing for months!". Andy did well on the route as well, smashing his previous high point and getting to within a few moves of the 'easy' climbing top out.
Back home now and I have a day of rest planned tomorrow, dreading getting a phone call from Tesco. But it hopefully wont be too bad, I have already booked a week off starting on Friday because Cath's coming to visit. Should be good.
Thursday, 14 June 2007
The Ruth-ven Boulder
Hello!
If your wondering: 'Why, Mike, have you hyphenated "Ruthven"? Surely its not another spelling mistake which your blog is becoming renowned for?' Well the answer is that the hyphen is indeed deliberate. All will be revealed as the story unfolds...
I need driving lessons so I thought, I know - why not next some of my good old school buddy's, to see who they recommend. Within seconds of sending out texts, I was bombarded with replies, owing to the fact that I'm still immensely popular with these people, despite not speaking to them much for about a year. One reply was from a girl called.... Ruth... who I used to go out with back in the day. I hadn't seen her much since she ---- ruthlessly dumped me a year ago, so when she asked if I 'wana do sumfin?', I debated with myself how much my girlfriend Cath, would mind. Seeing as she knows I'm a trustworthy kinda guy I decided that it wouldn't be too bad an idea to see her again. I was kinda bored sitting at home and should've been looking for a job so a distraction wouldn't be too bad ayee?
Ruth picked me up outside Tesco and I complemented her on her new set of wheels. She asked, 'where do you want to go?' and I kindly suggested going out to the Ruthven boulder. ('I thought we'd go get a coffee or something?' - 'No'). All went fine, the car journey went with out breaking down and we caught up. She told me about how she was desperate for a boyfriend to which I replied 'Sorry love, you've missed your chance with me'. I thought it'd be best to clear that up sooner, rather than later. Being the caring kinda guy that I am, I didn't want her to build up any false hope.
This blog entry could maybe turn a little uncouth, so its at this point we arrive at the boulder and Ruth goes for away a walk, the climbing begins. I've done most the problems here but it was ace to go there and get most of them first or second try of the day. Problems like Sloping off, V4, The Cheeky Girls, V3, Razor's Edge, V7, and Barry Manilow, V6, were done in this fashion. I then tried some that I hadn't climbed, but had tried before. I did the Big Lobowski, V6, after a few tries to work out a good sequence, and then the sit start just to the right of Big Lobo on small crimps. Ben showed it me last year though I couldn't remember the name or grade but think it was about V7 and definitely not one for sore skin.
It was then project time and bugger me, this project is hard.... Excellent. The holds are barely holdable and there is a notable lack of them at the crucial moment. But I'm sure there's a way, it will go - because they always do.
Ruth, by this point had returned from her walk and said she was cold. Courageously, I suggested we should head home. On the way I remembered I was meeting Andy at the wall so it was back to my house to pick up a sandwich, my harness and my wee bro (who's becoming a climbing machine) and onward towards the sports centre. On the way, Edd said 'Mike, what's Cath gonna think about you spending all your time with your ex' which made Ruth all defensive which made me slightly worried which made Edd laugh. Getting out of the car I thanked Ruth very much for what must have been a 25 mile round trip.
On the way up the ramp, Edd asked where I went to day and I told him. 'You went to Ruthven with Ruth?' - 'Yes, what's so funny about that?... o wait - Ruthven hahaha, Edd! What a good joke!!'
Cheerio Team,
Mike
If your wondering: 'Why, Mike, have you hyphenated "Ruthven"? Surely its not another spelling mistake which your blog is becoming renowned for?' Well the answer is that the hyphen is indeed deliberate. All will be revealed as the story unfolds...
I need driving lessons so I thought, I know - why not next some of my good old school buddy's, to see who they recommend. Within seconds of sending out texts, I was bombarded with replies, owing to the fact that I'm still immensely popular with these people, despite not speaking to them much for about a year. One reply was from a girl called.... Ruth... who I used to go out with back in the day. I hadn't seen her much since she ---- ruthlessly dumped me a year ago, so when she asked if I 'wana do sumfin?', I debated with myself how much my girlfriend Cath, would mind. Seeing as she knows I'm a trustworthy kinda guy I decided that it wouldn't be too bad an idea to see her again. I was kinda bored sitting at home and should've been looking for a job so a distraction wouldn't be too bad ayee?
Ruth picked me up outside Tesco and I complemented her on her new set of wheels. She asked, 'where do you want to go?' and I kindly suggested going out to the Ruthven boulder. ('I thought we'd go get a coffee or something?' - 'No'). All went fine, the car journey went with out breaking down and we caught up. She told me about how she was desperate for a boyfriend to which I replied 'Sorry love, you've missed your chance with me'. I thought it'd be best to clear that up sooner, rather than later. Being the caring kinda guy that I am, I didn't want her to build up any false hope.
This blog entry could maybe turn a little uncouth, so its at this point we arrive at the boulder and Ruth goes for away a walk, the climbing begins. I've done most the problems here but it was ace to go there and get most of them first or second try of the day. Problems like Sloping off, V4, The Cheeky Girls, V3, Razor's Edge, V7, and Barry Manilow, V6, were done in this fashion. I then tried some that I hadn't climbed, but had tried before. I did the Big Lobowski, V6, after a few tries to work out a good sequence, and then the sit start just to the right of Big Lobo on small crimps. Ben showed it me last year though I couldn't remember the name or grade but think it was about V7 and definitely not one for sore skin.
It was then project time and bugger me, this project is hard.... Excellent. The holds are barely holdable and there is a notable lack of them at the crucial moment. But I'm sure there's a way, it will go - because they always do.
Ruth, by this point had returned from her walk and said she was cold. Courageously, I suggested we should head home. On the way I remembered I was meeting Andy at the wall so it was back to my house to pick up a sandwich, my harness and my wee bro (who's becoming a climbing machine) and onward towards the sports centre. On the way, Edd said 'Mike, what's Cath gonna think about you spending all your time with your ex' which made Ruth all defensive which made me slightly worried which made Edd laugh. Getting out of the car I thanked Ruth very much for what must have been a 25 mile round trip.
On the way up the ramp, Edd asked where I went to day and I told him. 'You went to Ruthven with Ruth?' - 'Yes, what's so funny about that?... o wait - Ruthven hahaha, Edd! What a good joke!!'
Cheerio Team,
Mike
Saturday, 9 June 2007
Day Trip
Richie Betts, pioneer, picked me up this morning at 8.30 which in my opinion is far too early. However, it was Andy Wilby, the machine, who made the decision as it was his first Saturday off in a month. We arrived at Andy's and he introduced his dad, Ray, the wise and I said hello to Clare, the bear, who is Andy's woman friend.
I didn't really know where we were going other than "Torridon", but on the way Rich and I had an ethics debate involving Scott Muir, Si O'Conor, mountain bolts, dry tools, patios, boulder pads and that I was gonna flash Riches boulder problem - The Mission. (I know its not ethics but it was discussed in the car, so seems apt to add that bit in here)
The crag of the day is both unpronounceable and unspellable so I'm not going even try. It's the crag with The Torridonian. It's a good crag with a bastard of a walk in. Rich and I tanked 11 e-points between us, the finest being Riches dogged fight up the Torridonian, E3 6a. The going was initially good with the crag being in the shade but the sun soon strolled round the corner which was actually quite nice but pretty soon it became really hot and the pace of the day slowed. Andy had poor showing falling off every route he tried. Cursing his bad luck, he said the only way that the day could be saved was if he too flashed The Mission.
We went down for a swim in the river which was good fun because I like splashing and stuff. We then made the short journey to the Ship boulder which is absolutely mega. With the beta from Rich, I set about my flash attempt. I fell off the first move... It's hard stuff, but a great line and after a few more attempts, I stuck the first move. Then tried Malc's Arete which is also an amazing problem but I couldn't make the last move. Still a very cool boulder, one which gets Rich very psyched. Andy didn't flash nor send anything and we were munched by midges.
A few days off climbing now, I'm going to visit my sheep.
I didn't really know where we were going other than "Torridon", but on the way Rich and I had an ethics debate involving Scott Muir, Si O'Conor, mountain bolts, dry tools, patios, boulder pads and that I was gonna flash Riches boulder problem - The Mission. (I know its not ethics but it was discussed in the car, so seems apt to add that bit in here)
The crag of the day is both unpronounceable and unspellable so I'm not going even try. It's the crag with The Torridonian. It's a good crag with a bastard of a walk in. Rich and I tanked 11 e-points between us, the finest being Riches dogged fight up the Torridonian, E3 6a. The going was initially good with the crag being in the shade but the sun soon strolled round the corner which was actually quite nice but pretty soon it became really hot and the pace of the day slowed. Andy had poor showing falling off every route he tried. Cursing his bad luck, he said the only way that the day could be saved was if he too flashed The Mission.
We went down for a swim in the river which was good fun because I like splashing and stuff. We then made the short journey to the Ship boulder which is absolutely mega. With the beta from Rich, I set about my flash attempt. I fell off the first move... It's hard stuff, but a great line and after a few more attempts, I stuck the first move. Then tried Malc's Arete which is also an amazing problem but I couldn't make the last move. Still a very cool boulder, one which gets Rich very psyched. Andy didn't flash nor send anything and we were munched by midges.
A few days off climbing now, I'm going to visit my sheep.
Friday, 8 June 2007
The Road Trip
This eve's yarn is of a road trip of incomparable enjoyment and climbing pleasure. Indeed, it had everything - Sunshine, Trad, Sport, Bouldering, Indoor Seshes, Midges... It was the shizzle to my nizzle.
Myself, Donald and his dad cruised out to Tollaidh Crags and met up with Murdoch and Megan who were understandably taking it easy after doing 3 routes. Donald led Assault slab, a V Diff, then we walked over to Dinosaur Buttress which provided great enjoyment! I led Scarlatina E2, In the Pink, HVS, and Rouged-up, the E3 variation, (I need the e-points to catch up!!) Donald conquered his first HVS trad lead - a fine effort up the well protected Flushed-out.
Donald departed and Murdoch and I went for a cruise around the area after dropping Megan off. We went round all the top secret crags and bouldering venues* trying to escape to midges and eventually we arrived at a place known to locals as Colin's Bouldering wall at the Mountain Rescue Base... Murdoch, being a member of the mountain rescue team, said we could camp here for the night. We set up camp by carrying through armchairs and putting on some Primal Screen at this amazing, overhanging woody and had a yummy plate of pasta with chopped veg and pasta sauce. A hard boulder sesh ensued and I managed a problem that I set last time I was there involving a clever knee bar and wild campus move! Soon it was time for bed (which was no thermarest, but Jim B's mattress come boulder mat!).
Next day - Ardmair! It was hot. Murdoch cruised up Friends Retrieval, which I thought was excellent E1 climbing, then I climbed Colour Co-ordinated, E1. We were then joined by Rob, A colleague of Murdoch's, with a very dirty mind - shocking. Murdoch is keen to try and tick the crag and he's done most the stuff below E5 so he attempted Thorn in My Side, an E3. After a fluff up on route reading, he was going well until he got to the undercut, top out slab. Complaining that the rock was too hot, his hands were too greasy and the crack too wide for a good jam, the climbing too damn hard, he retreated up an E1 corner chimney, swearing a lot. When he made it to the top, it was my turn to second ("Watch out Rob - this crack is wet" - "In any other situation, that would be a good thing, Mike" - "Eh? how is a wet cra.... oh. Good one, Rob!") Then I got stuck in the chimney ("How the fuck did you get up here Murdoch?" - "Aye, it's a fucking fight! How do you think I felt with a shit load of drag!")
After abbing off we agreed it was far too hot for cragging so we went for a boulder sesh on the beach in hope of catching a sea breeze to keep us cool. On the way, we each bought an ice cream from the campsite - mmmmmm! It was a good sesh - I did a few of the harder problems though there is still stuff to do. Like most boulder seshs, conversation turned to the myth of Si O'Conor. Murdoch was adamant that the man was a legend for stirring up so much shit and getting a lot of people pissed off. He said that Si will always get the last laugh. I was partial to agree with him, though I thought, what does it matter, as the great Dawes said: "people seem away all the time... They should just do their own thing!". I added perhaps a new problem, might have been done before, on an undercut pebbly boulder 15-20m left of the main wall. It starts from a sloper near the lip on the bottom right of the boulder, then you use a left heal hook to gain two slopey pockets and then throw for another sloper come jug. Rob and I worked the problem together and he got it first try after me - good effort!! I gave it V16 originally, though I think V5/font 6C is more accurate. The name Teo Sio is an abbreviation, good luck guessing what it means!
After shredding our tips on the beach, the three of us scrambled along the Rhue coast line, past some amazing jutting prows and roofs. We sat in the evening sun for a bit then, on our way back, we saw Lawrence Hughes and his wife, Liz, on some bouldering on top of the hill so joined them for a while. Lawrence showed us an amazing cave which goes right through the hill side for 30 metres or so, with an excellent on-the-belly top out. He then gave us a quick tour of the problems, saying it was a great place to come after work, especially if you work 5 mins away...
After a well earned fish and chips in Ullapool, Murdoch and I headed back to the base. On the way I asked him how he thought the road trip was going. He said, "Amazing, apart from I haven't done any climbing yet!" We both agreed that when the weather's good, there's no better place than the West, and we certainly weren't jealous of Ben and Nick in Ceuse.
This lack of climbing soon came to an end on day three - Creag Nan Luch! This crag is described in the guide as one of the finest sport crags in Scotland, though I'd only been there once before where I only climbed on the upper tier. Today though, I wanted to get some hard onsighting on the lower tier. We arrived with Megan just as the sun disappeared behind the hillside giving us shade and sending temps, unlike the day before's furness. I warmed up with onsights of Ni Dubh, 6b, psychopomp, 6b, and Toss, 6c+, which was a particularly excellent climb. I then fell off the last move of Unfinished Business, 7a+ (marked as 'project' in the guide), though got it next try and came really close to flashing Shottabeena, 7b+ (7c in the guide, but easier with the discovery of a hidden pocket), falling whilst trying to clip the penultimate draw. A thanks goes to Murdoch for a topnotch belay, taking in a yard of slack as I fell! The rest of the day was spent trying to redpoint Shottabeena though the smoothness and concentration which I had for my flash attempt had disappeared off somewhere, though on my last attempt of the day I was going for the finishing jug when I remembered Murdoch saying "I once fell off the last move on the redpoint" and I thought "Yeah, only an idiot would fall off hereeee - fucckkkkkkkkkk!!!" and was none too happy when I didn't stick the move... Murdoch did well to repeat Shottabeena and came close to repeating Superblue, 7b+. Megan also was climbing well on the 6b's before mentioned, thwarted only by maybe a slight laps in concentration.
We headed to Loch Marie to arse around for a bit and were promptly eaten by swarms of midges.
Next destination on the the road trip was the long anticipated opening of Andy Wilby's garage bouldering wall. Murdoch and I doubted how much pulling we'd be able to muster, having not had much to eat and a hard day climbing, but the sight of the wall and a slice of pizza soon put tired arms and sore skin to the back of our minds. The Wall was christened 'Witness the Fitness' and is a well constructed wall indeed. Soon there were loads of gnarly problems being put up by Rich Betts, Rob, Murdoch, Andy and myself. Andy has no excuses now, unless the dreaded tendonitis kicks in from over use!
Anyway, sorry that there's no pictures, that's all from me now...
Cheerio, Mike
*A top secret guide will be available soon containing all the the secret crags priced at a mere £500. In order to maintain secrecy, it is written in ink which is only visible in light of a full moon reflected off Loch Marie at the Easter equinox. Or so I'm told. Sounds a bit fishy to me really. £500? Who has that kinda money??
Myself, Donald and his dad cruised out to Tollaidh Crags and met up with Murdoch and Megan who were understandably taking it easy after doing 3 routes. Donald led Assault slab, a V Diff, then we walked over to Dinosaur Buttress which provided great enjoyment! I led Scarlatina E2, In the Pink, HVS, and Rouged-up, the E3 variation, (I need the e-points to catch up!!) Donald conquered his first HVS trad lead - a fine effort up the well protected Flushed-out.
Donald departed and Murdoch and I went for a cruise around the area after dropping Megan off. We went round all the top secret crags and bouldering venues* trying to escape to midges and eventually we arrived at a place known to locals as Colin's Bouldering wall at the Mountain Rescue Base... Murdoch, being a member of the mountain rescue team, said we could camp here for the night. We set up camp by carrying through armchairs and putting on some Primal Screen at this amazing, overhanging woody and had a yummy plate of pasta with chopped veg and pasta sauce. A hard boulder sesh ensued and I managed a problem that I set last time I was there involving a clever knee bar and wild campus move! Soon it was time for bed (which was no thermarest, but Jim B's mattress come boulder mat!).
Next day - Ardmair! It was hot. Murdoch cruised up Friends Retrieval, which I thought was excellent E1 climbing, then I climbed Colour Co-ordinated, E1. We were then joined by Rob, A colleague of Murdoch's, with a very dirty mind - shocking. Murdoch is keen to try and tick the crag and he's done most the stuff below E5 so he attempted Thorn in My Side, an E3. After a fluff up on route reading, he was going well until he got to the undercut, top out slab. Complaining that the rock was too hot, his hands were too greasy and the crack too wide for a good jam, the climbing too damn hard, he retreated up an E1 corner chimney, swearing a lot. When he made it to the top, it was my turn to second ("Watch out Rob - this crack is wet" - "In any other situation, that would be a good thing, Mike" - "Eh? how is a wet cra.... oh. Good one, Rob!") Then I got stuck in the chimney ("How the fuck did you get up here Murdoch?" - "Aye, it's a fucking fight! How do you think I felt with a shit load of drag!")
After abbing off we agreed it was far too hot for cragging so we went for a boulder sesh on the beach in hope of catching a sea breeze to keep us cool. On the way, we each bought an ice cream from the campsite - mmmmmm! It was a good sesh - I did a few of the harder problems though there is still stuff to do. Like most boulder seshs, conversation turned to the myth of Si O'Conor. Murdoch was adamant that the man was a legend for stirring up so much shit and getting a lot of people pissed off. He said that Si will always get the last laugh. I was partial to agree with him, though I thought, what does it matter, as the great Dawes said: "people seem away all the time... They should just do their own thing!". I added perhaps a new problem, might have been done before, on an undercut pebbly boulder 15-20m left of the main wall. It starts from a sloper near the lip on the bottom right of the boulder, then you use a left heal hook to gain two slopey pockets and then throw for another sloper come jug. Rob and I worked the problem together and he got it first try after me - good effort!! I gave it V16 originally, though I think V5/font 6C is more accurate. The name Teo Sio is an abbreviation, good luck guessing what it means!
After shredding our tips on the beach, the three of us scrambled along the Rhue coast line, past some amazing jutting prows and roofs. We sat in the evening sun for a bit then, on our way back, we saw Lawrence Hughes and his wife, Liz, on some bouldering on top of the hill so joined them for a while. Lawrence showed us an amazing cave which goes right through the hill side for 30 metres or so, with an excellent on-the-belly top out. He then gave us a quick tour of the problems, saying it was a great place to come after work, especially if you work 5 mins away...
After a well earned fish and chips in Ullapool, Murdoch and I headed back to the base. On the way I asked him how he thought the road trip was going. He said, "Amazing, apart from I haven't done any climbing yet!" We both agreed that when the weather's good, there's no better place than the West, and we certainly weren't jealous of Ben and Nick in Ceuse.
This lack of climbing soon came to an end on day three - Creag Nan Luch! This crag is described in the guide as one of the finest sport crags in Scotland, though I'd only been there once before where I only climbed on the upper tier. Today though, I wanted to get some hard onsighting on the lower tier. We arrived with Megan just as the sun disappeared behind the hillside giving us shade and sending temps, unlike the day before's furness. I warmed up with onsights of Ni Dubh, 6b, psychopomp, 6b, and Toss, 6c+, which was a particularly excellent climb. I then fell off the last move of Unfinished Business, 7a+ (marked as 'project' in the guide), though got it next try and came really close to flashing Shottabeena, 7b+ (7c in the guide, but easier with the discovery of a hidden pocket), falling whilst trying to clip the penultimate draw. A thanks goes to Murdoch for a topnotch belay, taking in a yard of slack as I fell! The rest of the day was spent trying to redpoint Shottabeena though the smoothness and concentration which I had for my flash attempt had disappeared off somewhere, though on my last attempt of the day I was going for the finishing jug when I remembered Murdoch saying "I once fell off the last move on the redpoint" and I thought "Yeah, only an idiot would fall off hereeee - fucckkkkkkkkkk!!!" and was none too happy when I didn't stick the move... Murdoch did well to repeat Shottabeena and came close to repeating Superblue, 7b+. Megan also was climbing well on the 6b's before mentioned, thwarted only by maybe a slight laps in concentration.
We headed to Loch Marie to arse around for a bit and were promptly eaten by swarms of midges.
Next destination on the the road trip was the long anticipated opening of Andy Wilby's garage bouldering wall. Murdoch and I doubted how much pulling we'd be able to muster, having not had much to eat and a hard day climbing, but the sight of the wall and a slice of pizza soon put tired arms and sore skin to the back of our minds. The Wall was christened 'Witness the Fitness' and is a well constructed wall indeed. Soon there were loads of gnarly problems being put up by Rich Betts, Rob, Murdoch, Andy and myself. Andy has no excuses now, unless the dreaded tendonitis kicks in from over use!
Anyway, sorry that there's no pictures, that's all from me now...
Cheerio, Mike
*A top secret guide will be available soon containing all the the secret crags priced at a mere £500. In order to maintain secrecy, it is written in ink which is only visible in light of a full moon reflected off Loch Marie at the Easter equinox. Or so I'm told. Sounds a bit fishy to me really. £500? Who has that kinda money??
Sunday, 3 June 2007
Dear blog, Mood: down hearted.
It's raining. I have an umbrella but it's no use when I want to go climbing... or is it...
Idea one.Maybe not...
Even then I still don't have a fast enough way of getting somewhere before its time to go home.... Or do i....
Idea two
I'm a bit bored.
On the plus, my house here in Inverness has much more user friendly door frames which I have been using to develop one arm skills which appear to be lacking.
On the down, It's raining.
As an after thought - I'm so impressed with my wee cartoons, I'm gonna send them to gravity magazine.
Saturday, 2 June 2007
Surmations
No, I'm not sure if thats a word.
Last september I left my home in Inverness for Glasgow in search of hard projects. Now, I'm back in Inverness, it's time to re-adjust to cooked meals and a double bed. But first I think a few reflections on the past months. As with everything, things seemed to have occured with good thing having a complementary bad thing so I've tried to twin them together in hope of a humerous effect:
plus: Meeting loads of psyched climberscat Ibrox
minus: Finding out that they're all wall rats!!
plus: Dumby
minus: every other crag in the lowlands
plus: Climbing Sufferance
minus: trying to climb sufference in shit freezing weather
Minus: running out of money to go to the Ibrox
Plus: Saving money by going to dumby
Minus: the weather being 10 times worse at dumby than at the wall
Plus: a handful of nice evenings.
Plus: 2 cakes for a pound at the co-op near Dumby
Minus: the day the offer went away.
Plus: sleeping in a cave on the Cobbler
Minus: not getting to sleep in a cave on the Cobbler
Plus: Glen Coe!
Minus: Tunnel wall epic
Plus: Stanage
Minus: Rain
Plus: the Auchy - Dumby Double
Minus: Taking 3 hours to find Auchy
Plus: Julian Lines Lecture
Minus: catching the last bus back to glasgow afterwards with a weegie drunk
Plus: Doing all the moves of my flat traverse
Minus: Failing to link it on my last day in Glasgow.
Plus: Dumby Banter with Danny, Simon, Dave Mac, John, Peter, Stewart, Stewart, Ross H, the neds, others...
Minus: Ibrox banter with people more psyched for going round and round the 45 board than hard projects.
Plus: Going to the pub with danny after hard dumby sesh
Minus: Getting wasted after 3 pints!
Plus: Mike - "Fuck it - I'm not gonna do it..."
Minus: Dave Mac - "That's not an E11 quote!"
Plus: Getting Stew Brown Psyched!!
Minus: None
I'm sure there were plenty other highlights and lowlights but my mum is wanting me to help in the garden - moving railway sleepers to make a wall of sorts I believe. Could be good training?
Also if anyone knows of any good jobs going for a young man like myself in inverness - drop me a comment please!
Also, I don't seem to have a driving liscense yet and my regular partner up here has gone to ceuse for the summer, so, am looking to make a few new buds in Inverness s'long as they have a car - drop a comment!!!
Gotta Go BYEEE!
Last september I left my home in Inverness for Glasgow in search of hard projects. Now, I'm back in Inverness, it's time to re-adjust to cooked meals and a double bed. But first I think a few reflections on the past months. As with everything, things seemed to have occured with good thing having a complementary bad thing so I've tried to twin them together in hope of a humerous effect:
plus: Meeting loads of psyched climberscat Ibrox
minus: Finding out that they're all wall rats!!
plus: Dumby
minus: every other crag in the lowlands
plus: Climbing Sufferance
minus: trying to climb sufference in shit freezing weather
Minus: running out of money to go to the Ibrox
Plus: Saving money by going to dumby
Minus: the weather being 10 times worse at dumby than at the wall
Plus: a handful of nice evenings.
Plus: 2 cakes for a pound at the co-op near Dumby
Minus: the day the offer went away.
Plus: sleeping in a cave on the Cobbler
Minus: not getting to sleep in a cave on the Cobbler
Plus: Glen Coe!
Minus: Tunnel wall epic
Plus: Stanage
Minus: Rain
Plus: the Auchy - Dumby Double
Minus: Taking 3 hours to find Auchy
Plus: Julian Lines Lecture
Minus: catching the last bus back to glasgow afterwards with a weegie drunk
Plus: Doing all the moves of my flat traverse
Minus: Failing to link it on my last day in Glasgow.
Plus: Dumby Banter with Danny, Simon, Dave Mac, John, Peter, Stewart, Stewart, Ross H, the neds, others...
Minus: Ibrox banter with people more psyched for going round and round the 45 board than hard projects.
Plus: Going to the pub with danny after hard dumby sesh
Minus: Getting wasted after 3 pints!
Plus: Mike - "Fuck it - I'm not gonna do it..."
Minus: Dave Mac - "That's not an E11 quote!"
Plus: Getting Stew Brown Psyched!!
Minus: None
I'm sure there were plenty other highlights and lowlights but my mum is wanting me to help in the garden - moving railway sleepers to make a wall of sorts I believe. Could be good training?
Also if anyone knows of any good jobs going for a young man like myself in inverness - drop me a comment please!
Also, I don't seem to have a driving liscense yet and my regular partner up here has gone to ceuse for the summer, so, am looking to make a few new buds in Inverness s'long as they have a car - drop a comment!!!
Gotta Go BYEEE!
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