Saturday 31 March 2007

Goat Crag Part 2

Good evening! The sun was once again shining brightly across Wester Ross today and I consider myself lucky to have spent such a fine day climbing some of the finest line around with fine company. All in all, it was very fine. Murdoch drove Nic and myself out to Goat crag, picking up Colin Meek along the way. The two Pauls (Tat and Thorburn) turned up soon after and we were later joined by 2 Glaswegian climbers, one of which I recognised from my Ibrox days. Colins kids then arrived with Helen to complete yet another busy crag feel to the days climbing. I forgot my camera so no pics, sorry :(

I was seriously concerned that 4 days sheep farming (pictures to follow shortly) with my girlfriend, Cath, would skupper my climbing skills for this weekend, but I didn't need to be. I managed to clip the chain of Mactalla (previously described as the One Nic Did Earlier) and the Left hand Line (andy's route) which alas still remains nameless. Mactalla, meaning 'Echoes', is a particularly excellent climb, certainly one of the finest in Wester Ross. With a crux only a few moves before the chain, the climbing is steep and continuos with little restbite throughout the route. With my great lack of stamina, I experienced agony pump after lowering off!

Nic managed to climb a new line, bolted by Paul and Stork after 2 attempts, breaking through the roof between the corner (now named Teepee) and Andy's route, suggesting a grade of around 7b. I think it was given the name 'Too Old to be Famous', though could be wrong... Colin also managed Mactalla. As the bolter of the route, I thought it was a really good effort.

Stork seems to be super close to the arete (which also been named! - Goat Prow). Since my last visit to the crag he has managed the left hand variation which comes in at around 7c and has set about sending the direct line. The true finish is even harder and possibly the areas first 8a - long overdue in my eyes! He says the climbing is superb with positive crimps on both sides of the prow at the crux - I'm looking forward to trying it tomorrow if we head out!

Paul managed Goat Prow left variation after good beta on a knee bar rest from Stork - 'this knee bar is brilliant! Shit, I might actually do it!' Murdoch slogged his way up Mactalla and Andy's route resting on bolts and crusing his lack of fitness from spending the past few weeks on the Ben, saying - 'I am considering on giving my winter stuff to someone and lock it up so i dont go out again and focus on rock, am just a bit pissed off after todays poor show'
Maybe Murdoch is finally seeing sense!

Anyway, tomorrow looks like an early start and heading to Goat Crag again. If the weather's like today, chances are I won't be too upset about leaving my bed!

Happy climbing Blog fans!

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