D-Bart is the new hip and happ'nin' name for Dumby, it's fresh from the world of sk8rs and sick music, like Metallica and Avril Lavirine... Rad.
I went out there yesterday without my crew, who were doing other things like uni... Luckily the climbers of D-Bart were numerous and happy to be in the sunshine so I wasn't stuck doing power pockets sitstart due to only one pad... for most the time anyway. Not that power pockets s/s is a terrible problem - it's not really a line, but an arbitrary piece difficulty which, if you're trying to climb something new, makes an ok challenge untill your stronger/have more pads to do the better lines, am I right?!
After failing on power pockets, I tried Consolidated extension. After going over the last wee bit a few times I made the slippery walk to the start of the traverse and (hurray!) made it to the end. This was very pleasing and says to me, "if you want better stamina, do some maximum intensity bouldering!!"
After that I felt like sitting in the sun all day but tried a few things... Saboutage is just to weird a sequence to get sorted, and I can't do the second move on pongo, though can get the first every time...
Resisting temptation to go back on power pockets, I went to see what the Watson was up to round the corner. He wasn't really up to much... but going round the corner made me want to try Spam which is a cool roof problem on crimps. With only one pad, I didn't fancy the fall, so just had fun doing the last move. Then a new buddy called Andy offered me use of his pad and after only one big dab per attempt, it was on... Eventually manged to keep my feet on by being super agressive and over crimping, luckily, wasn't too nervous for the top. Delighted, I did a small dance.
Decided to call it a day there. 2 V9's in a sesh.... Can't wait for Magic Wood...
2 comments:
Aye good effort on Spam.
it was 3 pads by the time you got it ! plus some cunningly angled straps...
Hi Burnsie,
Good to meet someone from the scottish climbs community!
Thanks for the pad - hope this weather continues...
cheers,
mike
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