The Inspiring words of "Stone Play"

The flat was generously given a copy of Stone Country's "Stone Play" and, as I was heading to Dumby solo once again, I decided to read it in the train.

I wasn't sure what I'd think of it... I think John said once that it was "more waffle" but I really liked it. over the past year I think bouldering has become my main focus in climbing so its interesting to read a book like this and see written down things that I had picked up on but not had the wisdom or vocabuary to write like that. So... pretty cool.

Inspired by such creative writing and really nice pictures I joined Michael on Silverback. 7C's are finally becoming more straight forward but I'd been trying this problem for ages and a definate barrier to overcome. To be honest, when I did it, it felt kinda easy and left me wondering what I'd been doing wrong... Pretty good to get it - chuffed.

Then I saw the 1990 trav was well chalked up so went for the flash but fell off. So spent couple of tries getting the moves and got through the hard climbing first go after that... but I didn't know where to finish so shouted down to danny who had his guide at the Sea Boulder and he said that it finished up 2HB, a problem which I hadn't done since my first day at D-bart (to keep in the nu skool hip lingo) but luckily topped it in belly flop stylee.

Anyway, another good day but this blog... I duno if I can be arsed anymore. It's not as fun really... But achh... I don't seem to care much for it...

Good Sesh at D-Bart

D-Bart is the new hip and happ'nin' name for Dumby, it's fresh from the world of sk8rs and sick music, like Metallica and Avril Lavirine... Rad.

I went out there yesterday without my crew, who were doing other things like uni... Luckily the climbers of D-Bart were numerous and happy to be in the sunshine so I wasn't stuck doing power pockets sitstart due to only one pad... for most the time anyway. Not that power pockets s/s is a terrible problem - it's not really a line, but an arbitrary piece difficulty which, if you're trying to climb something new, makes an ok challenge untill your stronger/have more pads to do the better lines, am I right?!

After failing on power pockets, I tried Consolidated extension. After going over the last wee bit a few times I made the slippery walk to the start of the traverse and (hurray!) made it to the end. This was very pleasing and says to me, "if you want better stamina, do some maximum intensity bouldering!!"

After that I felt like sitting in the sun all day but tried a few things... Saboutage is just to weird a sequence to get sorted, and I can't do the second move on pongo, though can get the first every time...

Resisting temptation to go back on power pockets, I went to see what the Watson was up to round the corner. He wasn't really up to much... but going round the corner made me want to try Spam which is a cool roof problem on crimps. With only one pad, I didn't fancy the fall, so just had fun doing the last move. Then a new buddy called Andy offered me use of his pad and after only one big dab per attempt, it was on... Eventually manged to keep my feet on by being super agressive and over crimping, luckily, wasn't too nervous for the top. Delighted, I did a small dance.

Decided to call it a day there. 2 V9's in a sesh.... Can't wait for Magic Wood...

Glen Croe

Thought I'd update this slowly deterriorating blog while I'm in a good mood. Went to Glen Croe with the team... Thanks to Stew's dad for the lift out! Hopefully the photos (thanks to Ben's flash new camera) show that we had an excellent time, this was my first Croe experience.

The boulders are on the backside of the Cobbler and don't get too much sun this time of year. What they do get is a lot of rain, and it wasn't too much of a surprise to find the whole area very boggy. Foolishly, I'd left my wellies in inverness. Wet socks - one of the worst experinces known to man... the thought of them now makes me cringe and wimper slightly.

Anyway, the boulders were (mostly) dry and we had a tarp to keep things from being soggy/lost into a bog. Ben cruised Precious and I came pretty close, falling off on the finishing jug... just have to go back and try again, I suppose.

Then we went to the cutting room boulder. It's pretty cool - we all made ascents of The Nose problem. I wanted to flash the Cutting Room which is 7B or something so got psyched, got some sort of beta and pulled on. Before I knew what was what I was back on the floor, having pulled off the starting side pull... oopsie, it's now quite hard to get off the ground. Eventually got up the problem but not before falling off the finishing jug!

I think Dumbarton is a bad place for training... mental training anyway - you forget what its like to actually do problems, so get lost and confused when you're done the hard climbing and all that's left to do is match that massive hold... and you fall. Something odd is going on, I have a terrible case of summit fever or something.

Next we did Swap Meet, kinda cool problem which seemed really hard for me until I worked out a good bit of beta and sent.

We did some stuff on Fernandez boulder and took a look at Turbinal Nose (yes, it was wet) and went home (to bed).