Had a bit of a blip in my climbing keen-ness for the past wee while, probably for longer than I think because time seems to be flying by and I'm at the end of the summer hols already. I made a decision to stay down in Glasgow this summer because I thought it'd be easier to get a job. Can't really compare it, but once again I didn't really get what I wanted in the job department. Just now I'm cleaning an office 6 hours a week which is at least something.
In a bid to bulk up my C.V. I went to some volunteering website and clicked "apply" to everything I had the remotest interest in. So now I'm a volunteer boxing coach at a kids boxing club at Whiteinch. Now, I have a mate who's into boxing, but that's about as far as my interest goes. Nonetheless I said I'd give it a go which seemed fine to the coach and there I was, trying to take part in the warm up amongst these local youths... I never mastered the skipping rope at primary school, and I kept tripping over it here. Managed to play it cool and got away with it. Anyway, quite good fun to be feeling out my depth, there were little jobs that kept me busy, and also punched a bag a bit.
Also had a couple trips to dumby, I'm on pongo sit start. Seems like this is becoming a trade route with a good handful of guys getting up it. It's amazing how different a scene dumby has compared to the rest of Scottish bouldering. That pongo boulder must be one of the busiest bits of rock in the UK.
I'm making progress on pongo, and just want to put now a marker now so I can look back. My best link so far is to jump start from the block to the flange, crimp it, foot in crack, cross over to pinch, foot up to block, up to left hand sloper, and fall off trying to get the finger lock match. I think my next link has got to be link the jump start to the top, then from the stand start, then back a move at a time. I really don't want to fall off the top section! Could so easily be done... Anyway I'm back checking forecasts, getting anal about skin and hanging on some finger board holds that I made the other week:
In a bid to bulk up my C.V. I went to some volunteering website and clicked "apply" to everything I had the remotest interest in. So now I'm a volunteer boxing coach at a kids boxing club at Whiteinch. Now, I have a mate who's into boxing, but that's about as far as my interest goes. Nonetheless I said I'd give it a go which seemed fine to the coach and there I was, trying to take part in the warm up amongst these local youths... I never mastered the skipping rope at primary school, and I kept tripping over it here. Managed to play it cool and got away with it. Anyway, quite good fun to be feeling out my depth, there were little jobs that kept me busy, and also punched a bag a bit.
Also had a couple trips to dumby, I'm on pongo sit start. Seems like this is becoming a trade route with a good handful of guys getting up it. It's amazing how different a scene dumby has compared to the rest of Scottish bouldering. That pongo boulder must be one of the busiest bits of rock in the UK.
I'm making progress on pongo, and just want to put now a marker now so I can look back. My best link so far is to jump start from the block to the flange, crimp it, foot in crack, cross over to pinch, foot up to block, up to left hand sloper, and fall off trying to get the finger lock match. I think my next link has got to be link the jump start to the top, then from the stand start, then back a move at a time. I really don't want to fall off the top section! Could so easily be done... Anyway I'm back checking forecasts, getting anal about skin and hanging on some finger board holds that I made the other week:
Nice! Click on it for a larger view.
So the problem generally, that knuckle jam - There's no way I could use it unless I taped up and sponged out my fingers. Well there might be a way. I don't really care. I take the "I-want-to-do-what-malc-smith-did" approach, in which i think crimping the top on the block is acceptable seeing as it's just a different way of holding the same hold. I think what's going on is the sense of sentimentality is out-weighing the sense of contrivancy which is why a lot of people are going for the original sequence. Not a bad thing.
3 comments:
Crimping the block with your thumb in the hole is the way to go!
or alternatively stack the crimp and lock your thumb over the top
keep it keen Mike!!
Today (6.30am) the sky is still darkness but we already on the way to climbing mountain. This is a dangerous road , die the most cruel death if fall down overhanging . We can't see our hand, sometime we move left hand will touch owl, move right hand will touch snake. Sometime the cool wind is come, 14th July is due (chinese ghost day), i think is "brother & sister" follow us climbing mountain.
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