Friday, 12 June 2009

Anvil

That walk doesn't get shorter second time round, goddamit!!

What's up everyone? Yesterday I was at the anvil which means I had 2 days sport climbing on the trot. Was out out with Nic, Ben, Stew and Dave Redpath. Obviously with so much clipping and hanging on a rope I was bit spiritually a-miss and went back to my comfort zone of bouldering!



Those two problems are on the steep wall just next to the Anvil. Landings are good but for one boulder which I padded out with my rucksack, jacket and midge net. The first one is a brilliant one mover off some crimps which are a bit small. Boost told me I was too weak to pull on them which got me psyched. It climbs like the Shield at dumby 'cept it's not hard to get your foot up, and the top hold is a finger jug so it's a bit easier. The second one, I wanted to climb the arete but it didn't turn out like that. There are no holds on the arete higher up, so did a cool windmill move up to a good crimp then traversed back to the arete.

I realise no one is going to take bouldering seriously at the Anvil so that why I'm going to call them silly names... What about; Raindrops on Roses, Font 7A+ for the first one, and Whiskers on Kittens, Font 7A for the arete-ish one and I've just guessed the grades, hahaha.

After this I was persuaded to try an 8b on account of it has a really hard boulder problem unfortunately located above a big hole. That got me psyched; good effort from the Redpath on the FA, sounded like a real battle. With little skin, I managed all the moves on spitfire again tho still no decent sized links.

P.S. I told everyone to do a mass blogging but I think I might get left hanging...!!

3 comments:

JS Watson said...

nice one Mike! keep up the blogging...

have you had a look higher up the hill behind the Anvil? there are stacks of projects and a good circuit I'm hoping to clean up... one for bored boulderers who hate hanging on ropes... got a real lost feel to it

Dave Redpath said...

Bit of time on your hands today then Mike, best take John's advice.

Mike said...

Hi,

Yeah I remember you saying there was some stuff to do, I didn't go exploring. Maybe it's a venue that fits the bloc-sport guides nicely but I don't think many people would be keen for that walk unless they were dead psyched for the clips... Though a boulder circuit could be just what you need to get out of belay duties!