Jawa Boulder

Went out bouldering the other day with Cath, made another vid. I don't like this one as much, it's too long. I wanted to show how fustrating I found these problems, but I think with these vids the best bet is to keep um short, sweet and simple.

Anvil

That walk doesn't get shorter second time round, goddamit!!

What's up everyone? Yesterday I was at the anvil which means I had 2 days sport climbing on the trot. Was out out with Nic, Ben, Stew and Dave Redpath. Obviously with so much clipping and hanging on a rope I was bit spiritually a-miss and went back to my comfort zone of bouldering!

Those two problems are on the steep wall just next to the Anvil. Landings are good but for one boulder which I padded out with my rucksack, jacket and midge net. The first one is a brilliant one mover off some crimps which are a bit small. Boost told me I was too weak to pull on them which got me psyched. It climbs like the Shield at dumby 'cept it's not hard to get your foot up, and the top hold is a finger jug so it's a bit easier. The second one, I wanted to climb the arete but it didn't turn out like that. There are no holds on the arete higher up, so did a cool windmill move up to a good crimp then traversed back to the arete.

I realise no one is going to take bouldering seriously at the Anvil so that why I'm going to call them silly names... What about; Raindrops on Roses, Font 7A+ for the first one, and Whiskers on Kittens, Font 7A for the arete-ish one and I've just guessed the grades, hahaha.

After this I was persuaded to try an 8b on account of it has a really hard boulder problem unfortunately located above a big hole. That got me psyched; good effort from the Redpath on the FA, sounded like a real battle. With little skin, I managed all the moves on spitfire again tho still no decent sized links.

P.S. I told everyone to do a mass blogging but I think I might get left hanging...!!

Dumbuck Psyche

Finally made it to Dumbuck. I've obviously known about this crag for about 3 years but never been up. Bit pathetic really. Anyway, I'm in glasgow just now, unemployed, so have got too much free time almost.

Boost and I have headed up to the crag twice now and I think it's ace! The routes are basically long boulder problems so that means I can actually do them, with the pump only just coming in on the last moves. Today I managed 2 really nice 7c+'s, but really it should've been one because I fell off the top move of Flesh For Fantasy the day before. The other route was Awaken which I thought was a bit easier once you work out what to do, but still good. Nonetheless, I'm taking it as my best ever day sport climbing tick-wise and not a bad day for other things either. We made it up the hill much easier than previously, and we had a couple of Yazoo's chocolate milkshakes which were on offer at a shop on the way.

World tour of Scotland

Had a busy week or so cruising around Scotland in a Ford Ka. The weather was a bit mixed but we had a good time doing some touristy and some not so touristy things. Mostly just driving around but tried to stop as much as possible... Here's some pics that I didn't put on flickr.

Driving up the North East coast didn't have much rock to distract me from driving. Stopped in Helmsdale for some trifle and chocolate mouse made by Cath's mum.

We went to Orkney. Here's Cath at Skara Brae. She found cows more interesting than the 5000 year old settlement.

Neanderthals can't grade for shit.

There was one missing.

After Orkney we drove along the north coast for a bit. Stopping here to work on my handstand. Still not quite getting it.

Impressive Smoo Cave would make an amazing sport crag... Bit ming tho.


Made it to the bloodstone for a quick boulder.

And on to this place.

I liked Sandwood bay. It's just massive. There's a line in Stone Country guide, 'even the most dedicated boulderer might be distracted by grander things!' and I was determined to not get distracted.

Some excellent rock here, enough to keep me occupied for a day. The best thing about the place is simply exploring the Geos and crags. I remember at one point just running the length of an empty bay as fast as I could for no real reason. Maybe did get distracted a bit. Could describe more of the climbing but the best bit is exploring yourself so not going to.

I loved the waves here. The sun was setting and back lit the crests giving them an amazing green-blue colour. Camera doesn't do it justice.

Got soaked walking out of Sandwood bay, then we got a flat tyre.

This is Cleric's Wall at Rhue. Rate this venue pretty highly. Went to Ullapool after this for a pub supper then back to Inverness.

Next day we headed to Cummingston for some trad. Is it just me, or have a load of pebbles disappeared from the beach?

Then, finally, headed to Dunkeld for some unfinished business...

Enjoying some victory custard after climbing the problem at dunkeld. Well, it's there, somewhere in the woods. If your looking for it, find the direct approach path to uppercave and follow it downhill till you get to a big broadleafed tree bout half way to the main path. It's just the other side of that.

Think it looks a bit like a lightning bolt which made be want to call it something like pikachu or harry potters forehead. I've managed to refrain however, and have thought of the name Electric Feel. Struggled to grade it... It's around 7B/+ i think.

Also discovered super macro setting: