I wrote on October 18th 2019:
"Currently working the traverse... can't do the moves yet, and the last move seems to be the crux!"
June 2nd, the work was done. Let me describe it to you.
Wake up and step on the scales: 152.6lbs, a new low. I've been trying to gain some weight, for more strength endurance. For months I've only been able to have one or two attempts at the traverse per session, then needing a days rest per attempt afterward. Such is my state of fitness. I'd been aiming for a good recovery but... lockdown zen seemed to strike and I don't think I ate very much the previous day. I was light and recovered - I owed myself an attempt. Motivation fragile.
I hopped on my bike and wheeled down to Dodge Point, and walked the mile to the crag. Warm ups. I've learned how to warm up bouldering. One: start slow, Two: top out, Three: enjoy it.
After, I propped my camera phone on my favorite sapling and heading over to the sit start. The first half is power endurance and can be climbed in 40 seconds... V6; very crimpy. Then there's a rest consisting of a big flat hold. In the winter this hold draws warmth out of your fingers. This time it was not too cool, being 70 degrees. It's more of a shake out than a rest. I caught my breath. The next sequence is great - spin upside down and flick between good left hand holds while pretending to hold a right hand mollusc. Stretched out, cut the heel near front lever, then dead point to a small crimp. I hit the cross over to the good crimp from which it's limit reach to a wobbly flake (hopefully no one pulls it off). Top out was easy thank goodness. Eerie though. Should I be here?
I was there, uncertain, but physically the traverse was complete. And sad. I've climbed everything on the wall; I'll not go back with purpose.
I gave it V10 which I think is a risk... 8b route? I guess so, never climbed one. Maybe someone will repeat it? I've not climbed an establish problem for months. That's on my to do list. I guess "who cares" but, I just don't want to look like an idiot if someone gives it V8.... there are no Brittish 7a moves on it. Maybe a couple 6c ones. Grading is so hard! Someone should make a calculator... wait a sec...
I just googled climbing grade calculator and got this: https://www.bergfreunde.eu/climbing-grade-calculator/, which suggests V10 is french 8c or 14b, which is nonsense!
Look at these examples:
9a+ V15 Wheel of Life long boulder
9a V14 The Fly short route
8c+ V13 Hubble short route
8c V12 ?
8b+ V11 Wife of Fyfe traverse
8b V10 Happiness in Slavery short route, noted as V9
8a+ V9 So Be It short route
8a V8 Consolidated - long boulder problem, comments say 7c+
Well, disagree if you like. Just watch the vid.
Oh, the name. Rage, Rage. A Dylan Thomas line? The opening to the Iliad? The mental state needed to climb it? The psyche of America today?
