Pongo

Managed Pongo (8A version) yesterday! Get in. Probably one of the most focused efforts in terms of tactics and dedication I've done - I wanted to get it in the bag before I turned 21 on the 27th.

Went out on Saturday with my bro so spent most my time showing him around, doing classics that I've not done in ages. I'm going to big up "lunik" as a good problem here. So when I went out yesterday I was hoping for some good karma. The crack was weeping. Got it reasonably dry and managed to get pongo (6C+ version (more like 7a)) first go. Got the jump from the block start pretty quickly, then worked out the stand start move and topped that out. With the forecast bad till the 27th I didn't have much choice but to go for it until my body gave in. Got to work on the sitter moves and started slapping at the crux. Eventually stuck the hold, made loads of small mistakes which all added up and almost blew it topping out, my chalk felt like tiny ball bearings rolling me off the jugs, not nice! I ended up throwing myself at something I'd never used before and luckily it was good - maybe thanks to karma in the end.

Pretty made up about it and hopefully on track to catch up with the rest of the Dumby youth scene. Guess Sabotage next... ugg. Although turning 21, I'm not sure if I qualify as a youth anymore... double uggg!

Getting back into it

Had a bit of a blip in my climbing keen-ness for the past wee while, probably for longer than I think because time seems to be flying by and I'm at the end of the summer hols already. I made a decision to stay down in Glasgow this summer because I thought it'd be easier to get a job. Can't really compare it, but once again I didn't really get what I wanted in the job department. Just now I'm cleaning an office 6 hours a week which is at least something.

In a bid to bulk up my C.V. I went to some volunteering website and clicked "apply" to everything I had the remotest interest in. So now I'm a volunteer boxing coach at a kids boxing club at Whiteinch. Now, I have a mate who's into boxing, but that's about as far as my interest goes. Nonetheless I said I'd give it a go which seemed fine to the coach and there I was, trying to take part in the warm up amongst these local youths... I never mastered the skipping rope at primary school, and I kept tripping over it here. Managed to play it cool and got away with it. Anyway, quite good fun to be feeling out my depth, there were little jobs that kept me busy, and also punched a bag a bit.

Also had a couple trips to dumby, I'm on pongo sit start. Seems like this is becoming a trade route with a good handful of guys getting up it. It's amazing how different a scene dumby has compared to the rest of Scottish bouldering. That pongo boulder must be one of the busiest bits of rock in the UK.

I'm making progress on pongo, and just want to put now a marker now so I can look back. My best link so far is to jump start from the block to the flange, crimp it, foot in crack, cross over to pinch, foot up to block, up to left hand sloper, and fall off trying to get the finger lock match. I think my next link has got to be link the jump start to the top, then from the stand start, then back a move at a time. I really don't want to fall off the top section! Could so easily be done... Anyway I'm back checking forecasts, getting anal about skin and hanging on some finger board holds that I made the other week:

Nice! Click on it for a larger view.

So the problem generally, that knuckle jam - There's no way I could use it unless I taped up and sponged out my fingers. Well there might be a way. I don't really care. I take the "I-want-to-do-what-malc-smith-did" approach, in which i think crimping the top on the block is acceptable seeing as it's just a different way of holding the same hold. I think what's going on is the sense of sentimentality is out-weighing the sense of contrivancy which is why a lot of people are going for the original sequence. Not a bad thing.

Bit of coe action

I reckon I've climbed at tunnel wall 5 or 6 times now and still not done a route. It just isn't my thing. Meh, what you gonna do. I'm getting pretty close to Admission now, learning redpoint tactics from the master redpointer, Dave Redpath. Yup, flicking between holds and getting camped into rests are now part of my skill repertoire. Doing moves that you find easy over and over again can be a bit boring, and I'm not sure if it'll be worth it having never done a mega stamina fest before, but I'm quite psyched to get at least one under my belt. Other good bits about my day at tunnel wall were getting ski jump legs and star jump arms going at the same time, and swinging between Fated Mission and Admission to get the clips out.

The next day we made it up to the lost valley amid lots of funny looks from the tourists and odd comments such as 'now that's a rucksack!' from some walkers. This was because we were carrying boulder pads! Worth it? I thought so! Though Dave spent most of the time asleep, I got stuck into the leaning blocks crimps. Diesel Canary and Helipad are both quality problems and better from sitters. I had a minor epic on Helipad sitter, I think I put a tick mark in the wrong place. Eventually stuck the move but fell off the next move. Got it in the bag after working the next move without using the ground to jump.

I headed over the Glass Is Greener, which gets 7C,(7C+ when you factor in the walk). It took me a while to have a proper go at it, I couldn't find any real footholds. I never actually fully worked out the beta, until I stuck the first move to the micro crimp. From here I looked down at my feet. My right was on a tiny edge, I reckoned I needed it on the next one up. In the mean time I needed to find a left foothold. There wasn't any so I stuck it on the one earmarked for my right. Suddenly the problem made sense, I could stand up on my left and get my right just below my hand on a good foothold. Went for the sharp finger jug from here, my foot popped and I was left hanging by some skin which had caught the sharp lip... nice! I got my foot back on and went to re-adjust when my skin ripped and I was off. Gutted, but even more gutted when I looked at my finger which had lost a chunk of skin and was bleeding.

Dave had arisen at this point and was going to wait for me in the car. I figured ripping a flapper is probably a good point to call it a day, and still be psyched to go back!

Jawa Boulder

Went out bouldering the other day with Cath, made another vid. I don't like this one as much, it's too long. I wanted to show how fustrating I found these problems, but I think with these vids the best bet is to keep um short, sweet and simple.

Anvil

That walk doesn't get shorter second time round, goddamit!!

What's up everyone? Yesterday I was at the anvil which means I had 2 days sport climbing on the trot. Was out out with Nic, Ben, Stew and Dave Redpath. Obviously with so much clipping and hanging on a rope I was bit spiritually a-miss and went back to my comfort zone of bouldering!

Those two problems are on the steep wall just next to the Anvil. Landings are good but for one boulder which I padded out with my rucksack, jacket and midge net. The first one is a brilliant one mover off some crimps which are a bit small. Boost told me I was too weak to pull on them which got me psyched. It climbs like the Shield at dumby 'cept it's not hard to get your foot up, and the top hold is a finger jug so it's a bit easier. The second one, I wanted to climb the arete but it didn't turn out like that. There are no holds on the arete higher up, so did a cool windmill move up to a good crimp then traversed back to the arete.

I realise no one is going to take bouldering seriously at the Anvil so that why I'm going to call them silly names... What about; Raindrops on Roses, Font 7A+ for the first one, and Whiskers on Kittens, Font 7A for the arete-ish one and I've just guessed the grades, hahaha.

After this I was persuaded to try an 8b on account of it has a really hard boulder problem unfortunately located above a big hole. That got me psyched; good effort from the Redpath on the FA, sounded like a real battle. With little skin, I managed all the moves on spitfire again tho still no decent sized links.

P.S. I told everyone to do a mass blogging but I think I might get left hanging...!!

Dumbuck Psyche

Finally made it to Dumbuck. I've obviously known about this crag for about 3 years but never been up. Bit pathetic really. Anyway, I'm in glasgow just now, unemployed, so have got too much free time almost.

Boost and I have headed up to the crag twice now and I think it's ace! The routes are basically long boulder problems so that means I can actually do them, with the pump only just coming in on the last moves. Today I managed 2 really nice 7c+'s, but really it should've been one because I fell off the top move of Flesh For Fantasy the day before. The other route was Awaken which I thought was a bit easier once you work out what to do, but still good. Nonetheless, I'm taking it as my best ever day sport climbing tick-wise and not a bad day for other things either. We made it up the hill much easier than previously, and we had a couple of Yazoo's chocolate milkshakes which were on offer at a shop on the way.

World tour of Scotland

Had a busy week or so cruising around Scotland in a Ford Ka. The weather was a bit mixed but we had a good time doing some touristy and some not so touristy things. Mostly just driving around but tried to stop as much as possible... Here's some pics that I didn't put on flickr.

Driving up the North East coast didn't have much rock to distract me from driving. Stopped in Helmsdale for some trifle and chocolate mouse made by Cath's mum.

We went to Orkney. Here's Cath at Skara Brae. She found cows more interesting than the 5000 year old settlement.

Neanderthals can't grade for shit.

There was one missing.

After Orkney we drove along the north coast for a bit. Stopping here to work on my handstand. Still not quite getting it.

Impressive Smoo Cave would make an amazing sport crag... Bit ming tho.


Made it to the bloodstone for a quick boulder.

And on to this place.

I liked Sandwood bay. It's just massive. There's a line in Stone Country guide, 'even the most dedicated boulderer might be distracted by grander things!' and I was determined to not get distracted.

Some excellent rock here, enough to keep me occupied for a day. The best thing about the place is simply exploring the Geos and crags. I remember at one point just running the length of an empty bay as fast as I could for no real reason. Maybe did get distracted a bit. Could describe more of the climbing but the best bit is exploring yourself so not going to.

I loved the waves here. The sun was setting and back lit the crests giving them an amazing green-blue colour. Camera doesn't do it justice.

Got soaked walking out of Sandwood bay, then we got a flat tyre.

This is Cleric's Wall at Rhue. Rate this venue pretty highly. Went to Ullapool after this for a pub supper then back to Inverness.

Next day we headed to Cummingston for some trad. Is it just me, or have a load of pebbles disappeared from the beach?

Then, finally, headed to Dunkeld for some unfinished business...

Enjoying some victory custard after climbing the problem at dunkeld. Well, it's there, somewhere in the woods. If your looking for it, find the direct approach path to uppercave and follow it downhill till you get to a big broadleafed tree bout half way to the main path. It's just the other side of that.

Think it looks a bit like a lightning bolt which made be want to call it something like pikachu or harry potters forehead. I've managed to refrain however, and have thought of the name Electric Feel. Struggled to grade it... It's around 7B/+ i think.

Also discovered super macro setting: